Recently, “corporate survival” has become a hot topic. The beauty industry has also encountered various challenges this year, but the competition of efficacy cosmetics is still fierce. CHAILEEDO invited Ding Wenfeng, founder of Winkey pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd, to share with us the trends in Chinese cosmetics.
CHAILEEDO: What are the trends of new ingredients next year?
Ding: Under the new regulations, the filing applications for new ingredients should be multi-directional and prosperous.
First, the basic ingredients, which have a history of use abroad, will be introduced into Chinese.
Second, the characteristic resources. Plant resources with traditional Chinese characteristics are encouraged to be applied in skincare products, and the domestic market will actively conduct research and development applications for these new ingredients.
Third, the scientific and technological ingredients, especially peptide ingredients. Due to the wide use domestically and overseas and the high market recognition, as well as the characteristics of high safety, high activity and diversity, Winkey has reserved plenty of new peptide ingredients technologies, hoping to empower the industry with innovative technologies continuously.
CHAILEEDO: What is the next breakthrough point of efficacy cosmetics?
Ding: The breakthrough point of efficacy cosmetics is mainly the efficacy active ingredients. Every brand shall have its unique and exclusive active ingredients to protect its distinctiveness, to enhance the brand value and competitiveness.
CHAILEEDO: Will synthetic biology replace animal and plant extracts?
Ding: The synthetic biology method is green and environmental-friendly, in line with the industrial and future development trends. The synthetic biology method works by building underlying cells that can perform various tasks envisioned by designers, including producing various compounds.
At this stage, the large-scale and industrialized application of synthetic biology is relatively limited. There are few varieties that can be industrialized, and many are still in the conceptual stage. Thus, we have not truly realized more economic and environmental protection production by using the synthetic biology method and peptide ingredients have not yet been produced by this method in a real sense. At present, the mainstream is still chemical synthesis, and a small amount is produced by enzyme engineering or genetic engineering methods.
Therefore, the synthetic biology method may be able to replace the production of some chemical synthetic substances at this stage. But due to the complex and multi-component systems of animal and plant contracts, there is no way for synthetic biology to replace animal and plant extracts nowadays.