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10 New Trends in Cosmetic Ingredients for 2024

From March 20th to 22nd, 2024, the Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) was held at the Shanghai World Expo Exhibition & Convention Center. Public records indicate that the first PCHi was launched in China in 2008, and it has been held annually since then. This edition of PCHi marks its return to Shanghai after a hiatus of six years.

According to official data, this edition of PCHi featured over 770 exhibitors, covering cosmetics ingredients, related equipment, and testing companies. Among them were familiar faces like Symrise, BASF, and Bloomage, as well as newcomers like Yucca Elements, and SENCL, gathering over 100 industry veterans and attracting more than 30,000 professional attendees.

During the PCHi exhibition, CHAILEEDO conducted in-depth exchanges with over 40 upstream enterprises on-site, uncovering ten new trends in cosmetic ingredients that are set to influence the industry this year.

Anti-aging craze extends upstream

Not long ago, the “CHAILEEDO on the Frontline” program team conducted face-to-face interviews with nearly 50 bosses or relevant executives of cosmetics companies in East China, South China, Shaanxi, and other regions. Most of them believe that the anti-aging trend will continue this year. At the PCHi event, CHAILEEDO also observed that many raw material companies are focusing on the anti-aging field to further establish their authority in this area.

For example, Xincheng Meike, an importer of cosmetic ingredients, brought super botanical retinol, which acts on the same anti-aging targets as retinol. Shanghai Jiayu Tech, which specializes in the development of Chinese herbal ingredients, introduced extracts of cordyceps and ox gall, with nearly 10 anti-aging-related targets and clinical test data.

During the exhibition, many executives told CHAILEEDO, “Currently, anti-aging ingredients not only focus on efficacy but also have higher requirements for safety and effectiveness.”

Jiang Ligang, President of the Personal Care Division of SENCL said, “A major feature of anti-aging ingredients in the market is that they are derived from both cosmetics and food. For example, methylsulfonylmethane is a typical example. In addition, resveratrol, NMN, PQQ, and other ingredients, well-known in the food industry for their anti-aging properties, are now being applied to anti-aging cosmetics, with safe and reliable results.”

“The requirements for efficacy claims in cosmetics regulations are driving the development of cosmetics anti-aging ingredients towards a more scientific and higher-quality direction. In addition, scientific identification and quality control of anti-aging ingredients are long-term guarantees for brands that add these ingredients,” said Zou Zhaohui, founder of JLand Biotech.

Recombinant collagen and peptide ingredients lead the trend

As a key ingredient in many high-end anti-aging products, recombinant collagen is experiencing a “golden period” in the market. At this year’s PCHi, CHAILEEDO noticed that many recombinant collagen raw material suppliers have introduced a variety of types and differentiated materials, providing the market with diverse choices.

For example, JLand Biotech has launched Yuetiao™ recombinant fibrinogen ingredients, which boast high activity and stability advantages. Jinbo Biotechnology has introduced a series of type A recombinant III/XVII human collagen products with different molecular weights, capable of “directly supplementing collagen.” Trautec Medical has brought its exclusive innovative product Tetrahedral Nucleic Acids (TDN), which can maintain cellular protein homeostasis and promote DNA repair, among other functions.

“Currently, Trautec can produce proteins with specific functions, such as recombinant type III collagen, type XVII collagen, and the upcoming recombinant type IV collagen. These active ingredients can play multiple roles in skin repair and anti-aging at different levels of the skin,” said Ji Baihui, Product Director of Trautec.

In addition to recombinant collagen, peptide-based active ingredients also garnered attention at this exhibition. For example, Winkey Tech introduced innovative peptides such as your cyclic peptide and double anti-aging collagen motor peptide. Shanhai Innovation, the world’s first upstream raw material company focusing on “supramolecular smart assembly technology,” presented SHINE+ self-assembling short peptide-1.

Zhang Jiaheng, the founder of Shanhai Innovation, pointed out, “Currently, highly targeted peptide-based ingredients are emerging in the market, providing customized solutions for specific skin aging issues.”

Ji Baihui stated, “In terms of ingredients, Trautec pays more attention to active peptides, proteins, and other biomolecules. In terms of technology, we leverage AI technology to rapidly and accurately screen new anti-aging ingredients, enhancing the technological content and product quality of the materials.”

Botanical ingredients almost dominate the exhibition

On-site, CHAILEEDO found that phrases like “naturally sourced,” “botanical extracts,” and “highly natural origins” have become focal points of promotion for raw material suppliers, with companies like Kao directly emphasizing slogans like “Naturally sourced, beauty blooms.”

“The trend of botanical ingredients is enduring,” said Jiang Ligang. “With ongoing research into natural products and advancements in extraction technology, companies can more accurately find effective ingredients from nature.”

In Zhang Jiaheng’s view, botanical ingredients meet the market’s desire for natural and gentle components, reflecting the demand for healthy, environmentally friendly, and efficient materials. For example, the patented product SHINE+ Algal Essence showcased by Shanhai Innovation primarily utilizes NaDES solvents for targeted extraction of active substances, which is efficient and more environmentally friendly.

Additionally, Ingredi, which specializes in Yunnan characteristic botanical ingredients, introduced new products such as Yunyi™ and Cyprius series. International raw material brand Provital officially announced the plant endophyte platform Triplobiome™ and its first active ingredient based on this platform, Shiloxome™. Yucca Elements also launched the “High-energy Pure Extracts from Botanical” series, including the Qingyin Gold Osmanthus Essence Powder.

It is worth mentioning that at this exhibition, Winkey Tech’s sub-brand “Originating from China” made its official debut, introducing botanical ingredients such as Camellia Chamae Paraffin and Three-Plant Calm. Candy, Director of Marketing Communications at Weiqi, told CHAILEEDO that Weiqi aims to become a global Chinese raw material brand, which requires development in the direction of comprehensive materials. Currently, Weiqi has researched about 30 types of botanical ingredients.

However, CHAILEEDO also noticed that many exhibitors mentioned a viewpoint: “Natural or botanical does not necessarily mean safe.” botanical ingredients still need to undergo rigorous safety testing. In the future, safety and stability are also two major issues that botanical ingredients need to address.

Sunscreen ingredients are advancing towards multifunctionality

The golden period of sunscreen product promotion is approaching, and CHAILEEDO noticed during the exhibition that the functionality of sunscreens has evolved from the basic sun protection to providing multi-dimensional effects such as improving skin texture and reducing irritation.

Zhang Jiaheng believes that consumers are increasingly focusing on the additional value of products, such as skincare benefits, which require sunscreen ingredients to not only block UV rays but also provide skincare functions such as antioxidant, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory effects.

Lao Shuquan, Director of the China Region for the Cosmetics Ingredients Department at Symrise, told CHAILEEDO that currently, high SPF sunscreens with a refreshing texture are the mainstream demand in the market. For example, Deinex showcased water-soluble sunscreens NeoHeliopan® Hydro and NeoHeliopan® AP, which effectively reduce the number of organic UV filters in sunscreen formulas and improve the greasy feeling on the skin through the synergistic effect of the natural sun-enhancing component SymEffect® UV extracted from sugarcane.

“In the sunscreen product market, we aim to achieve a good skin-feel experience while also developing bio-based sunscreen ingredients to replace chemical sunscreen ingredients,” revealed Zhang Jiaquan, Founder & CEO of Biocre Tech, to CHAILEEDO.

Dong Liang, Co-founder/CEO of Siyomicro, also explicitly stated that sunscreen products are increasingly integrating more skincare functions. For example, Zhongke Xinyang’s SYSTASESOD® and SYTOIN® Ectoin can enhance the skin’s natural resistance and repair ability against UV rays, helping sunscreen products transition from “surface protection” to “deep anti-photoaging.”

In fact, several business leaders mentioned that due to regulatory constraints, there may not be much innovation in sunscreen categories. Therefore, auxiliary ingredients designed to address issues such as skin-feel and irritation are considered the “hidden gems” in future sunscreen product materials.

Biotechnology companies are speeding up the innovation of domestic ingredients as they enter the field

In recent years, the cosmetics market has seen a proliferation of offerings, with numerous biotechnology companies also entering the scene, further accelerating innovation in the cosmetics industry. At the recent PCHI event, “biotechnology,” “biotech,” and “biosynthesis” were frequently spotted terms.

For example, Yucca Elements, focusing on innovative bio-based functional ingredients, introduced the “Biological Homologous Skin Revitalization” series. Synthetic biology company Biocre Tech made its debut at the exhibition, showcasing over 10 unique innovative products, including antimicrobial proteins that promote skin health and maintain skin microbiota.

“Utilizing biotechnology to produce cosmetic ingredients presents a great opportunity for China to catch up with foreign materials,” said Yang Yang, General Manager of Shanghai Yankai Bio-chem Co., Ltd. “With more biotechnology companies entering the cosmetics arena, the quality and purity of the corresponding materials produced will be comparable to foreign materials, with even larger production capacity and more competitive prices.”

According to Ji Baihui, “Through biotechnology, cosmetic raw material suppliers can produce components that traditional chemical synthesis methods cannot generate, with higher purity, better stability, and fewer side effects.”

Zou Zhaohui stated that synthetic biology is one of the few pathways that truly achieve sustainable development, as it helps reduce reliance on traditional resources and improve production efficiency, and cost-effectiveness.

Customization has become an important niche track

In addition, the continuous development of cutting-edge technologies such as biotechnology and genetic modification has brought breakthrough perspectives to the customization of cosmetic functions. Many responsible persons from cosmetic raw material companies have told us, “Customized materials are the trend for future development and also an important niche track. We hope to develop customized materials together with various cosmetic companies.”

“Exclusive customized materials are often highly tied to the scientific prowess of the product,” said Shao Qimiao, head of Yucca Elements. “This year, Yucca Elements has opened up customized material services, offering customization for both botanical ingredients and biologically recombinant protein ingredients.”

Xiang Wei, Technical Manager at Wuhan Zhongke Optics Valley Green Biotechnology Co., Ltd. pointed out, “With the development of technology, precision skincare has made significant progress. Initially, precision skincare mainly provided different solutions for different skin problems, but now, precision skincare can select the most precise materials from a genetic perspective and utilize carrier encapsulation technology to penetrate precise targets, thereby exerting more efficient effects.”

“Customized materials are currently a trend in the market, but blindly customizing materials is not advisable. Companies need to choose customized materials based on their brand philosophy and scientific principles, which is the correct path,” said Yang Yang frankly.

The sustainability trend is unstoppable

From the visits conducted by CHAILEEDO, it is evident that sustainability is also a significant trend in the development of beauty and cosmetics ingredients. CHAILEEDO observed that the current PCHi has set up a sustainable zone and jointly initiated the “PCHi Sustainable Beauty Initiative” with 12 upstream and downstream companies in the industry.

“The sustainability trend is unstoppable,” many exhibitors of ingredients expressed. Xiang Wei stated, “In addition to traditional international giants continuously promoting green and sustainable concepts, more and more domestic cosmetics industry associations and leading brand enterprises are also practicing ESG through the establishment of relevant organizations and activities.”

Lao Shuquan agreed, stating, “Currently, ESG sustainable strategies have become one of the key assessment indicators for many domestic listed companies. Deliflorin comprehensively promotes green product protection schemes in ESG strategies, while also achieving ESG technological upgrades in areas such as sun protection, blue ocean ecology, and sensitive skin whitening, assisting companies in achieving ESG transformation across the supply chain.”

Zhang Jiaheng elaborated, “As an innovative enterprise committed to developing supermolecular biobased materials, we deeply understand the importance of the harmonious coexistence of technology and nature. We will strive to develop products that are purer, more efficient, more stable, and more skin-friendly.”

The complete version of the safety assessment is both a challenge and an opportunity

In interviews, it was found that the complete safety assessment of cosmetics remains a widely discussed topic among raw material suppliers. For most companies, the complete safety assessment undoubtedly bodes well for the healthy development of the industry. However, there is still room for discussion regarding the methods and approaches involved.

For example, several overseas raw material companies candidly admitted to facing a significant challenge of meeting both the overseas clients’ demand for “no animal testing” and the Chinese regulations’ requirements for complete safety assessment data. This dilemma may pose a future hurdle for the promotion of imported ingredients in China.

According to Ling Feng, the Business Director of Biofunctional Ingredients for Personal Care in the Asia-Pacific region at Ashland, the company is actively engaging with relevant national departments and associations while also exploring new methods of material testing in hopes of completing cosmetic safety assessments in the most suitable manner possible.

For Fang Zi, the Sales Director at Noble, the complete safety assessment of cosmetics presents an opportunity for raw material companies. She believes that by correctly addressing regulations and continuously investing in and improving the necessary material documentation, ingredients will naturally become more competitive and sustainable.

Looking ahead, companies specializing in botanical ingredients will need to focus on acquiring more comprehensive safety assessment data, achieving higher safety evaluations, and offering better value for customers.

Innovation is the driving force

Under the backdrop of industry upheaval, how can enterprises maintain their competitive edge? Many raw material companies mentioned a word to me: innovation.

Jiang Ligang frankly told me that for Chinese cosmetics companies to become world-class enterprises, they must grasp the “right to speak” in terms of actual ingredients and build China’s technological barriers. “In short, the localization and innovation of cosmetic ingredients are inevitable trends in the future development of the Chinese cosmetics industry.”

Zhang Jiaquan believes that product innovation, user experience, and technological advancement are important driving forces for the future development of raw material companies and even the entire raw material industry.

Dong Liang also pointed out that material innovation is the biggest pain point in the beauty industry. He sees that Chinese cosmetics materials have long relied on imports due to inadequate independent research and development capabilities, and yet materials are crucial in determining product efficacy and consumer attention. “To make good products, we must first excel in technology.”

When discussing the current situation of the raw material market, Mao Yongjin, Chief Scientist and Co-founder of DaXiangFei, told me that the raw material market has always existed, but under the gradual standardization of regulations, some non-compliant companies disappear, some companies choose to reduce their product categories, and some companies begin to seize advantageous areas. Amid this ebb and flow, the raw material industry will inevitably experience significant development strides.

Ingredients enterprises will develop in multidimensional directions

The customized products mentioned earlier are part of raw material innovation. Additionally, it has been observed that many enterprises have begun extending towards both ends of the spectrum.

Mr. Chen Chujie, General Manager of Guangzhou Yangrun, explained to us that some companies now request specific formulations from raw material suppliers when developing a product. “Guangzhou Yangrun helps these companies by analyzing how to meet these formulation requirements from a technical perspective, starting with the principles of the ingredients.”

Mr. Ling Feng also mentioned that the future of raw material enterprises lies in expanding towards both ends. “On one hand, we need to explore the scientific aspects of products, approaching closer to the forefront of medical science. On the other hand, we need to better understand consumer needs and then propose solutions that combine both aspects to manufacturers. This approach can help us bypass many cumbersome processes.”

Adapting to the situation and changing as circumstances dictate. While the raw material market is undergoing significant changes, it is evident from the many new products showcased at this exhibition that major raw material suppliers are actively embracing change in various areas such as preparation technology, basic research and development, and efficacy validation. Only by always staying at the forefront of change can we better meet challenges.