(From left to right: Du Min, Co-founder of CHAILEEDO; Li Zhi, 8th President of CACPA; Li Huihua, Co-founder of CHAILEEDO; Erica O’Grady, Chairman, SCC; Tony O’Lenick, President, SCC (2024); Cai Zhaoyang, Co-founder of CHAILEEDO; Hao Zhigang, 7th President, CACPA)
“I know you, CHAILEEDO.” Just after meeting, before our team could introduce themselves, Tony O’Lenick, the President of SCC (Societies of Cosmetic Chemists), enthusiastically mentioned that he had previously visited China multiple times to participate in cosmetics exchange activities as the former President of IFSCC (International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists).
The most recent visit was at the 2019 Guangzhou Huangpu International Cosmetic Science and Technology Innovation Conference, where Tony delivered a speech in his capacity as the President of IFSCC from 2016 to 2019 and as the co-founder and CEO of Siltech, a US-based company. At that time, he pointed out that technology is currently changing the entire industry, and reformulating ingredients is crucial, as even small changes in formulations can bring about significant product improvements.
As Tony mentioned, the Chinese cosmetics industry has now sparked a trend of technological beauty. As the first association in the global cosmetics field composed of scientific and technical professionals, SCC, with its 78-year history, has a clear understanding of the development and trends in cosmetic technology.
More importantly, SCC not only initiated and established the widely respected IFSCC internationally but has also always prioritized education and training for cosmetic professionals, continuously promoting the high-quality development of the global cosmetics industry.
SCC and IFSCC, “Similar to the United States and the United Nations”
After World War II, the United States experienced a strong economic recovery, leading to a significant increase in demand for cosmetics and household cleaning products. As a result of the rising status of American women and a substantial increase in spending on cosmetics, the cosmetics industry flourished, fostering unprecedented exchanges of talent and technology. SCC, an association organization primarily composed of cosmetic chemists, formulators, and technical professionals, emerged during this time.
According to SCC Chairman Erica, SCC was founded in 1945 and is a nonprofit professional association in the cosmetics industry. It is also the only industry organization in North America dedicated to beauty and personal care, encompassing professionals such as formulators, researchers, consultants, and raw material suppliers. The association has 6,000 members, with 19 chapters spread across North America.
At first glance, like many Chinese and international associations in the cosmetics industry, SCC serves as a bridge for promoting industry exchanges and learning. However, as a professional association for cosmetics, SCC has quite a reputation. According to Tony, SCC initiated the establishment of IFSCC in 1959. “The relationship between SCC and IFSCC is similar to that between the United States and the United Nations, but even closer,” Tony humorously remarked.
It is worth noting that all SCC members automatically become members of IFSCC. As the largest global scientific organization in the cosmetics industry, IFSCC conferences and related awards have earned a reputation as the “Olympics of the cosmetics industry” and the “Nobel Prize in cosmetics technology,” representing high-level international exchanges in cosmetic technology research and development. In recent years, an increasing number of Chinese cosmetics companies have made their mark at IFSCC conferences. Tony specifically mentioned two impressive Chinese companies, Pechoin and MG, stating, “One has a long history, and the other is developing rapidly.”
What is popular in the United States?
“The 1960s and 1970s were the golden age of cosmetics in the United States,” Tony said. This was closely related to the sustained and stable economic growth of post-war America. Public data shows that the US economy maintained a high growth rate from 1965 to 1985, with a compound annual growth rate of 8.8% in per capita disposable income and 8.5% in per capita female income (median). As of now, the United States still holds the position as the world’s largest cosmetics market.
So, what are the significant trends in the current US cosmetics market?
“The concept of natural and sustainable development,” Tony said. However, he also pointed out, “There is still a lack of consensus in the US cosmetics market regarding the definition of natural and sustainable beauty.” Definitions of clean beauty, for example, vary greatly worldwide. In fact, European and American consumers have started questioning “Clean Beauty.” A lawsuit was even filed in the United States against a certain brand’s mascara that had obtained Sephora’s “clean beauty” certification.
“Personalized products are becoming popular,” added Erica O’Grady, Chairman of SCC. In her opinion, unlike the earlier, more general use of cosmetics, the use of cosmetics, especially makeup, has become more diverse. Current products have become more specialized and offer customization services for specific demographics.
In addition, Tony mentioned the US market’s focus on microbiome skincare and emphasized the strategic positioning of international beauty companies like L’Oréal in the field of microbiome skincare. It’s worth mentioning that L’Oréal recently announced its acquisition of Lactobio, a Danish-based company focused on probiotics and microbiome research.
However, the US cosmetics industry’s response to the prevalent trends of collagen restructuring and synthetic biology technologies in China has been relatively calm. Tony stated, “Collagen restructuring is not an issue in terms of FDA regulation; the question is whether American consumers can accept cosmetics using this technology.”
Tony believes that the US cosmetics market appears more conservative compared to China. “Currently, China, Japan, and Korea are leading the global beauty trends. Especially in areas like cushion compacts and powder compacts, American products are not as specialized or multi-step. For example, when it comes to skincare, Chinese consumers may have seven or eight steps, while American consumers may only have two or three steps,” he explained.
Talent is the foundation of industrial development
In addition to serving as the President of SCC, Tony also founded Siltech, a family-owned company that has business dealings with Chinese clients in the raw materials sector. It is understood that the company’s main products include silicone oil and surfactants. Regarding the challenges that American companies may face when entering China, Tony believes that adapting to the regulatory issues brought about by Chinese regulations is a significant challenge. In his view, if a product cannot comply with regulations in China, it poses a significant business challenge for American companies as frontline customers value compliance.
Since he already has a successful family business, why does he still focus his main energy on SCC’s work?
Tony told CHAILEEDO, “In the early stages of the rapid development of the American cosmetics industry, a newcomer entering the industry would receive help from many excellent mentors, making it easy to get started. However, as the industry develops, a person may have to work in multiple positions and needs to continuously learn new technologies to excel in their respective roles. Therefore, SCC focuses on providing education and training to help professionals in the cosmetics industry continuously improve their knowledge and qualifications.”
It is understood that if a newcomer wants to learn about cosmetics and skincare knowledge, SCC will first offer a 6-hour course, followed by specialized courses for further learning. After completing the courses, students will receive relevant training certificates. Tony said, “This not only helps professionals in the industry find jobs but also helps relevant positions in large companies find suitable talent.” It is evident that cultivating professionals in the cosmetics industry is an important mission for SCC.
For the cosmetics industry, talent is the foundation of its development and the most active advanced productive force. In terms of cultivating professionals, SCC also has its unique resource advantages. According to Tony, SCC has a history of 78 years and has a database composed of cosmetics technical literature and presentation slides accumulated over several decades, with 80% of it being technical materials. They have turned these resources into 80 different videos, providing targeted teaching and training on cosmetics technology knowledge.
When CHAILEEDO asked if the technology from 70 years ago is applicable to today’s cosmetics industry, Tony said, “Old things also have their value.” He believes that by accessing the accumulated database of several decades, students can understand the technological development trajectory of a product and conduct more in-depth research. Additionally, if there are any related cosmetics intellectual property disputes, evidence can be found in the literature and documents from the past several decades.
It is worth mentioning that compared to other industries, the cosmetics industry is a “capillary” in the United States. There are not many universities offering specialized programs in cosmetics. However, using their 78 years of accumulated technical resources, SCC has helped set up cosmetics-related courses in over 20 universities in the United States to cultivate more cosmetics professionals. Regarding the phenomenon of many cosmetics scientists or senior technical talents who have worked in the United States returning to China, Tony said, “This is a normal phenomenon.” In his view, no matter where you work, you will apply the experience you have accumulated to your new position, which is beneficial for industry communication and growth.
Perhaps, regardless of how the American cosmetics industry or even the global cosmetics industry changes, in the eyes of Tony and SCC behind him, the key to grasping new technologies and trends ultimately lies in the growth and communication of professional talent.
