The efficacy of cosmetics largely depends on the ingredients. Retinol A has always been recognized as one of the star anti-aging ingredients in the industry, and HBN holds absolute authority in the fundamental research of this ingredient. The brand has been widely acclaimed as a pioneer and leader in Chinese retinol A anti-aging research, and the study of retinol A has been an integral part of the brand’s development.
Recently, at the 18th Annual Conference of the Chinese Dermatologist Association (CDA) and National Cosmetic Dermatology Congress, HBN provided in-depth interpretation of three international SCI papers it recently published in international journals. These three papers not only represent a new breakthrough in HBN’s research on retinol A but also signify that HBN has filled the gap in systemic cross-research on retinol A and its derivatives in the forefront academic field. This holds significant implications for the industry as a whole.

Fill the Chinese gap in retinol A and its derivatives, Systematic cross-disciplinary research blank
Public information shows that the Chinese Dermatologist Association (CDA) is an important branch of the Chinese Medical Association and has become the world’s third-largest dermatologist association, following only the United States and Europe. The CDA annual meeting is an annual academic event for dermatologists in China. The theme of this year’s CDA annual meeting is “Inheritance, Development, Innovation, and Enhancement.” It is oriented towards clinical practical problems, targeting the needs of dermatologists, and follows the principle of “facing grassroots and being close to clinical practice,” presenting a grand academic feast for dermatology workers.
During this year’s CDA annual meeting, the HBN Functional Anti-Aging Academic Satellite Symposium was held on December 8th. The brand shared multiple scientific research achievements, including three SCI papers published in international journals and collaborative projects. Many renowned experts gathered at the “HBN Functional Anti-Aging Academic Conference” to interpret the latest scientific research achievements of HBN. In addition, the HBN academic conference was chaired by Professor Sun Qiuning, Chief Physician of the Department of Dermatology at Peking Union Medical College Hospital and former Director of the Department of Dermatology and Dermatological Aesthetics Center, along with Professor Zhang Zhenying, Chief of the Department of Dermatology at the University of Hong Kong Shenzhen Hospital and Special Expert of the Eighth Affiliated Hospital of Sun Yat-sen University, Professor Zhang Lingjuan, Doctoral Supervisor of the School of Pharmacy at Xiamen University and Minjiang Scholar Distinguished Professor, and Shu Peng, Director of Product Research and Development at HBN, who delivered academic presentations.
At the beginning of the conference, Professor Sun Qiuning, Chief Physician of the Department of Dermatology at Peking Union Medical College Hospital and former Director of the Department of Dermatology and Dermatological Aesthetics Center, delivered a speech: “The skin is the largest organ of our body. It not only plays an important role in protecting us from external harm but is also closely related to our health and appearance. In this challenging and opportunistic era, the development of dermatology is changing rapidly. As a pioneer, leader, efficacy verifier, and standard setter in the Chinese Retinol A anti-aging field, HBN provides us with real and effective solutions to improve skin aging issues.”

Subsequently, Shu Peng, Director of Product Research and Development at HBN, shared the latest research achievements in a paper: “The HBN Biological Laboratory conducted a systematic study on five commonly used retinol A and their derivatives, evaluating their effects from different dimensions such as irritability and efficacy. This provides more precise scientific theoretical guidance for the application of retinol A ingredients and more accurate scientific theoretical support for the development of composite retinol A products. In addition, the HBN Biological Laboratory studied the role and mechanism of retinyl palmitate in UVB-induced skin photoaging, providing a basis for its potential application in skin anti-photoaging and treatment.”

Professor Zhang Zhenying then further interpreted the paper titled “Mechanism Study on the Improvement of Skin Barrier and Atopic Dermatitis by Novel AhR Agonists.” “Retinoic acid and its derivatives have many applications in the field of dermatology, including anti-aging and disease treatment. We know that its topical preparations have certain irritations. In order to reduce the drug’s irritability, the HBN laboratory has done a lot of work and discovered some small molecule compounds that can alleviate atopic dermatitis and repair the skin barrier. I think this idea is excellent and may become a promising direction for future drug development.”

Regarding the collaborative project “Mechanism Study on the Loss of Stress Antibacterial Ability in Dermal Fat due to Aging,” Professor Zhang Lingjuan elaborated on the differentiation trajectory and regulatory mechanism of fat in the process of skin development, further demonstrating the high plasticity of adult adipocytes and adipose cells in the process of skin wound healing. This research provides new evidence for the new functions and roles of skin fat, broadening the understanding of skin fat. In the future, these findings may serve as innovative targets for adipose stem cells and skin fat in disease treatment, as well as provide new hope for anti-aging.
When discussing the latest research progress, Professor Zhang Lingjuan mentioned, “We recently collaborated with HBN to study whether retinol can change the function of fat cells. We are very pleased to find that retinol has significant effects on fat cells. It can effectively restore the lost fat cells and restore the function of our fat.”

At the end of the symposium, Yao Zhenan, the founder and CEO of HBN, said, “Scientific research is a vast ocean. Even if predecessors have been leading for 100 years, there are still some cutting-edge research areas waiting to be explored. However, it requires focus and determination to invest in the long term. Only then can we establish effective discourse power in our own field. We also look forward to HBN bringing more high-quality research results.”

It is worth mentioning that during the conference, the unveiling ceremony of the “Skin Biomedical Joint Research Center” (joint laboratory) jointly established by HBN and Xiamen University was held. This platform will cover multi-level research on skin cells and tissues, understand the intrinsic and extrinsic mechanisms of skin aging, reveal the mechanisms and regulatory rules of skin physiology and pathology, and gradually explore new mechanisms of cosmetics’ impact on the skin. Its aim is to more accurately select and develop targeted anti-aging bioactive substances, develop safer and more effective anti-aging cosmetics, and provide broader research support for the cosmetics industry.

According to the information, among the three SCI papers shared and interpreted by HBN, two of them are related to the basic research of retinol. The titles of these two papers are “Comparison of Five Retinoids for Anti-photoaging Therapy: Evaluation of Anti-inflammatory and Anti-oxidative Activities in vitro and Therapeutic Efficacy in vivo” (referred to as Paper One) and “Efficacy and mechanism of retinyl palmitate against UVB-induced skin photoaging” (referred to as Paper Two).

Paper One is a collaborative research between HBN and Guangdong University of Technology and was published in the international journal “Photochemistry and Photobiology” on November 22nd this year. Paper Two is a collaboration between HBN and the Joint Laboratory of Xinjiang Institute of Physics and Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences, and was published in the international journal “Frontiers in Pharmacology” in October this year.

The third paper focuses on the study of the efficacy of the novel ingredient GDU-952 in specific dermatitis. The title of the paper is “GDU-952, a novel AhR agonist ameliorates skin barrier abnormalities and immune dysfunction in DNFB-induced atopic dermatitis in mice” (referred to as Paper Three). This paper is also a collaborative research between HBN and Guangdong University of Technology and was published in the international journal “Biochemical Pharmacology” in November this year. It is an authoritative paper in the JCR-Q1 area of the pharmaceutical field.

These three SCI papers were published in internationally authoritative journals and are important recent research achievements of the HBN brand. HBN fills the industry’s gap in systematic cross-disciplinary research on retinol A and its derivatives from an innovative perspective, and also empowers the industry with scientific research accumulation in the composite application of retinol A and its various derivatives.
Furthermore, HBN has innovatively confirmed the important role of the novel ingredient GDU-952 in anti-inflammation, balancing the skin’s immune system, and enhancing the skin barrier function. The research findings in Paper Three not only have implications for clinical research on atopic dermatitis but also have the potential to provide new ideas for anti-inflammation, strengthening the skin barrier, and maintaining skin stability. It also indicates that HBN is gradually delving into new approaches to intractable skin problems and proposing new ingredient technologies to improve skin health. This also means that HBN is not only deeply involved in the research of retinol A but also has made breakthroughs in multiple cutting-edge areas.
From “Pioneer” to “Advanced Leader”
As we all know, as early as 1996, retinol (also known as vitamin retinol A) was approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for use in anti-aging cosmetics. It was also the first member of the vitamin family approved by the FDA for anti-aging skincare, known as the “gold standard of anti-aging.” However, despite the significant anti-aging effects of retinol, it faced two major application dilemmas: instability and high irritation. Few brands had been able to overcome these challenges.
Therefore, for many years, the Chinese retinol skincare market was dominated by a few foreign brands until the emergence of HBN. HBN became the pioneer of Chinese retinol anti-aging, breaking new ground in this high-risk, high-efficiency field.
It is reported that in order to ensure the stability of retinol, HBN’s research and development team compared and analyzed almost all possible retinol encapsulation techniques and finally selected the unique “microcapsule technology” that demonstrated outstanding activity and preservation performance to encapsulate retinol. They developed a retinol encapsulation system that is more suitable for Chinese women’s skin types and skincare preferences. After hundreds of formula adjustments, HBN’s exclusive ACTCOCOON® “silkworm” gold microsphere encapsulation technology was successfully developed, ensuring high activity and high efficacy of retinol.
In addition, to address the common issue of retinol’s high irritation, HBN also conducted exclusive research and customization of Complex-ATRA® compound retinol formulas. By combining highly active retinol with sustained-release retinyl esters, they significantly reduced the possibility of skin intolerance. After extensive formulation adjustments, HBN ultimately achieved the golden ratio of multiple retinol synergistic mechanisms, balancing gentleness and effectiveness.
Furthermore, HBN’s publication of two SCI papers related to retinol demonstrates the brand’s continuous in-depth research in the field of retinol-based studies.
In the first paper, HBN took the lead in analyzing the advantages of five types of retinol and their derivatives from six dimensions: antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, collagen degradation inhibition, collagen synthesis promotion, hyaluronic acid enhancement, and skin texture improvement. According to the research, HBN conducted comprehensive horizontal and vertical comparisons of retinol and its derivatives to understand their specific mechanisms and advantages. This allowed for precise formulation and targeted photodamage treatment. The paper concluded that “combining compound retinol and retinyl esters is the key to combating photodamage” and proposed the academic viewpoint that “formula concentration is more important than formulation.”
Although the anti-aging effects of retinol and its derivatives have long been recognized in the academic community, there is still a lack of research on the safety and efficacy comparisons of each ingredient. Therefore, HBN took the lead in conducting in-depth research on the advantages of the five major retinol esters, aiming to scientifically prove the best retinol complex for anti-photodamage treatment. Through experimental verification, HBN’s innovative development of Complex-ATRA@ compound retinol demonstrated the unique mechanisms and synergistic effects of each component.
It can be seen that in this paper, HBN presented a detailed, scientific, and comprehensive research process on the safety and efficacy of retinol and retinyl esters from an innovative perspective.
The second paper analyzed the multidimensional mechanism of retinyl esters (retinol palmitate) in combating photodamage, ultimately proving its effectiveness against skin photoaging. In this paper, HBN conducted in vitro and in vivo experiments, as well as metabolomic, transcriptomic, and network pharmacological analyses, to study how retinyl esters combat skin photoaging from multiple perspectives. They discovered that the targets of retinyl esters were the same as those of skin aging.
Furthermore, through their research, HBN discovered that retinol was not only effective in anti-aging but also capable of inhibiting collagen degradation, reducing inflammation, decreasing oxidative stress, and regulating cell function and repair.
In summary, through the second paper, HBN provided multidimensional evidence for the significant anti-photoaging ability of retinyl esters (RPalm), establishing a solid scientific foundation for the formulation and application of retinyl esters.
Basic research on ingredients is the cornerstone of cosmetic development. There is no doubt that these two fundamental studies on retinol demonstrate that HBN is not only a pioneer in the Chinese retinol research field but also continuously advancing in the field of retinol-based studies.
Another noteworthy achievement is that in response to the industry’s lack of efficient quantitative detection methods for retinol and its derivatives, HBN, based on a wealth of experimental data, initiated the organization of multiple industry enterprises, research institutions, and experts to jointly propose the “Determination of Retinol and its Derivatives in Cosmetics” national industry standard. This standard provides a standardized and accurate method for the quantitative detection of retinol and its derivatives in cosmetics, filling a gap in the industry.
With its continuous innovation, HBN has become an advanced leader in the field of retinol-based skincare. The brand has not only developed advanced encapsulation technology and optimized compound retinol formulas but has also contributed to scientific research and industry standards. HBN’s dedication to research, development, and standardization has elevated the Chinese retinol skincare market and provided Chinese women with effective and gentle anti-aging solutions.
Let the “true efficacy” live up to its name
The high efficacy of a product is inseparable from basic research. For a brand to have its own ingredients, first and foremost, it must possess a high technological barrier in a certain field. Secondly, it relies on long-term accumulation and continuous iteration and upgrading of products through consumer feedback insights. HBN’s continuous in-depth research on retinol A also helps in the development of higher efficacy anti-aging products.
It is reported that the three products initially launched by HBN (HBN Luminous Water, HBN Dual retinol A Essence Milk, HBN Dual Retinol A Night Cream) became classics as soon as they were launched. Among them, the Luminous Water, which has been on the market for 4 years, is still the number one product in the water category on major mainstream sales platforms. The HBN Dual Retinol A Night Cream has also impressed numerous experts, bloggers, and scientific research institutions with its true efficacy, and its reputation continues to grow.

It is reported that since its establishment, HBN has subjected its products to countless tests and iterations. Through continuous updates and iterations, the brand constantly seeks the golden combination of products and improves their corresponding performance.
Taking the HBN Dual Retinol A Night Cream as an example, in August of this year, HBN achieved a brand-new upgrade from 1.0 to 2.0, realizing a multidimensional breakthrough of “more wrinkle resistance, increased effectiveness, and greater soothing effect.” It balances “high efficacy, super gentle, and outstanding skin feel,” which better meets the consumption needs of the anti-aging population.

Specifically, HBN Dual Retinol A Night Cream 2.0 not only contains the exclusive self-developed new generation Complex-ATRA® compound retinol but also the exclusive self-developed new generation golden ratio of “dual retinol + dual ester,” achieving double the “dual high efficiency + dual sustained release.” At the same time, the product also considers higher efficiency, gentleness, and long-lasting anti-aging and anti-wrinkle capabilities, and combines with high-purity “adenosine, arginine, and lysine peptides” to target dynamic wrinkles, static wrinkles, and combined wrinkles, achieving a more significant anti-wrinkle and firming effect.
Furthermore, according to the HBN brand, with the exclusive ACTCOCOON® high-activity “golden microparticle” encapsulation technology and the exclusive Retinol A enhancing technology “A3BOOST™,” HBN Dual Retinol A Night Cream 2.0 can better lock in high activity and enhance A acid conversion efficiency faster, achieving a 200% conversion efficiency of A acid and extending the active ingredient’s activity by 433%, effectively providing fresh and active energy to the skin.
Data from authoritative third-party testing agency SGS on human efficacy testing shows that after using HBN Dual Retinol A Night Cream 2.0, wrinkles are reduced by 31.85%, elasticity is increased by 22.67%, and skin radiance is improved by 22.43%. It truly achieves “significant effectiveness.” It is worth mentioning that HBN has also invited hundreds of beauty bloggers who have higher requirements for efficacy and are more discerning in product selection. After rigorous human testing for 28 days, HBN created the first variety show “Hundreds of Beauty Bloggers Reveal the Anti-Aging Truth.” In the presence of these beauty bloggers, HBN Dual Retinol A Night Cream 2.0 successfully met the challenge, truly living up to the name of “true efficacy.”
From in-depth ingredient research to the effective realization of product efficacy testing, it is not difficult to see that HBN has always adhered to scientific and technological innovation and used its strong product power to bring “true efficacy” to consumers. HBN is also the first Chinese cosmetics brand to propose making “true efficacy” a reality, which reflects its determination and original intention to pursue product “true efficacy.”
It is evident that HBN’s exploration in the field of anti-aging skincare is inseparable from its long-term commitment to real efficacy and scientific research innovation. What is even more important is that as a new generation of Chinese skincare brands, HBN continues to delve into Chinese retinol anti-aging research, steadfastly conducts scientific research, and truly achieves the spirit of “visible true efficacy” in its products. This not only reshapes the value and confidence of Chinese brands but also contributes to the further development of high-quality Chinese cosmetics.






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