On October 22nd, the 2024 (10th) China Cosmetics Trends Conference, hosted by CHAILEEDO and supported by NBC, Trautec, Winkey, and COSMAX, was held in Shanghai!
This conference, themed “Technology Anti-Aging,” saw leading beauty and cosmetics companies from China and internationally sharing the latest trends in technological anti-aging. Concurrently, numerous companies along the cosmetics industry supply chain exhibited their latest products and technologies. During the meeting, Professor Lai Wei, a renowned expert in beauty and cosmetic dermatology and the head of the dermatology department at a top-tier hospital, presented on the topic “Exploring the Application of Peptide Ingredients in Anti-Aging Skincare Products: Insights and Reflections Based on Consumer Insights and Clinical Practice in Dermatology.”
First of all, I am very honored to participate in this conference organized by CHAILEEDO. Just now, a guest mentioned that our entire society needs innovative development, and the cosmetics industry is no exception. Especially in terms of raw materials and brands, innovation and development need to be achieved, which is inspiring.
We have been involved in the Chinese cosmetics industry since the 1990s, primarily focusing on regulation. However, over the years, there have been few sightings of new local raw materials. But as a guest mentioned, with so many new raw materials being reported, it is hoped that more registered new materials will emerge, which is a good sign of domestic innovation and development.
Therefore, today I would like to share about peptide ingredients. Nowadays, in terms of raw materials and technological innovation, peptides are one of the hottest topics in recent years. Whether in the cosmetics or pharmaceutical fields, peptides have garnered great attention.
- Recognition of Skin Anti-Aging by Dermatology Professionals
First, let’s take a look at the understanding of anti-aging by dermatologists. In a survey conducted among 100 dermatologists from top-tier hospitals, we found that their understanding of skin aging may slightly differ from market insights.
Regarding the manifestations of skin aging, 86% of doctors consider spots/uneven skin tone as the main indication, 68% mention fine lines and wrinkles, 50% discuss skin laxity, sagging, and reduced elasticity, with 47% noting rough skin texture, 37% indicating poor facial luster, 11% mentioning dry skin, and only 1% referring to facial contour hollowing out.
Concerning the causes of skin aging, external factors receive high attention. 99% of doctors believe that staying up late, disrupted circadian rhythms, and UV radiation are major factors, while improper skincare and lack of scientific concepts account for 89%, air pollution and improper cosmetic procedures for 57%, and unhealthy habits and stress ranging between 4% and 48%. These data indicate a particular focus by doctors on photoaging, staying up late, and emotional influences.
Regarding skin tissue changes due to aging, nearly all doctors agree on the reduction of dermal collagen and the decrease in the ratio of type I and type III collagen. Additionally, 97% of doctors point out accelerated degradation of dermal elastic fibers, leading to skin laxity, sagging, decreased barrier function, reduced moisture and sebum secretion. Furthermore, 94% of doctors are concerned about slowed cell metabolism, increased pigmentation and spots, with 53% acknowledging flattening of the epidermal cell connections.
In terms of anti-aging measures, we found several clinical or at-home methods endorsed by skincare professionals. Sunscreen receives 100% approval; topically applied anti-aging products like peptides and retinol also have 100% agreement, indicating high levels of scientific dissemination; phototherapy devices also receive 100% approval due to their medical-aesthetic attributes; beauty sculpting therapies including water light needles and PRP receive 97% approval, while fillers injections garner 91% approval. However, at-home beauty devices only have 13% approval, indicating a tendency by doctors to compare them with medical devices and not fully accepting their efficacy under new regulatory standards, but attitudes may gradually change; orally consumed anti-aging products have only 9% approval, reflecting doubts about their effectiveness, similar to the debate over the anti-aging effects of orally consumed collagen, which requires more research and scientific dissemination to change perceptions.
Moreover, which anti-aging pathways affecting collagen are recognized? Topically applied products are widely accepted for their ability to supplement or stimulate collagen production, such as peptides and retinol; phototherapy devices can promote collagen and fibroblast cell production; sunscreen is acknowledged for its anti-photoaging effects; azoles and PRP are recognized for stimulating collagen growth through growth factors; filler injections provide a direct and immediate effect; while awareness of orally consumed anti-aging products and LED therapy is relatively low.
How do doctors view common anti-aging ingredients? Peptide ingredients like acetyl hexapeptide-8 and copper tripeptide receive 100% approval, indicating highly successful dissemination. Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives receive 95% approval, retinol and niacinamide at 94%. In comparison, amino acids, mercaptoethylamine, and glutamine have a lower recognition rate at 86%, indicating a need to enhance awareness of certain ingredients.
In considering efficacy, safety, and comfort, professionals recommend anti-aging ingredients such as peptides like acetyl hexapeptide-8, copper tripeptide (100% recommended), retinol and niacinamide (97% recommended), as well as sugars and their derivatives like hyaluronic acid (95% recommended). However, the recommendation rate for plant active substances like resveratrol is lower, indicating the need to increase scientific dissemination of these ingredients.
Innovation is always the driving force for brands, companies, and countries. I believe that innovation in the cosmetics industry must achieve the following: firstly, be safer; secondly, be more effective; thirdly, be more accessible, meaning more affordable and easier for everyone to use. This is substantial innovation.
In conclusion, the understanding of anti-aging by 100 dermatologists mainly focuses on issues like spots, wrinkles, and poor elasticity. They believe that staying up late, UV radiation, and improper skincare are the main external factors contributing to skin aging. Additionally, all doctors unanimously agree on the effectiveness of topically applied anti-aging products, especially those containing peptides and retinol. Considering comfort, efficacy, and safety, topically applied anti-aging products are seen as the best choice for home use because of their ease of use. They can also be used at home. All dermatologists acknowledge the anti-aging effects of peptides, demonstrating their professional knowledge.
- In-Depth Insight into Consumer Anti-Aging Demands
Taking a closer look at consumer perceptions, this is a survey conducted by CHAILEEDO, focusing mainly on the 18-35 age group, still considered as youth rather than middle age. The survey covers first, second, and third-tier cities, primarily concentrated in second and third-tier cities, encompassing various skin types.
The survey reveals that each consumer has an average of 4.8 skincare needs, with a focus on anti-aging, moisturizing, oil control, cleansing, repair, sun protection, whitening, acne removal, and spot removal. The proportion of demands varies across different age groups.
Among consumers under 24 years old, there is a growing awareness of anti-aging. Data shows that 23% of individuals under 24 have anti-aging awareness, while 48.09% of those aged 25-30 believe in the need for anti-aging. On the other hand, the proportion of consumers over 40 with anti-aging demands is relatively low, indicating that anti-aging is primarily focused on younger individuals, as the effects are more pronounced during this period.
A decade ago, when studying the aging characteristics of southern women, researchers found that Chinese women begin to show signs of aging in their twenties, especially developing wrinkles around the eyes at an early stage. This shift in perception has influenced the concept of “early aging” and enhanced awareness of anti-aging.
The primary factor consumers consider when evaluating anti-aging products is safety, with only 80% ranking it as a top priority, indicating room for improvement in concerns regarding the safety of cosmetics. Efficacy comes as the second priority, at 73%. Additionally, consumers also focus on the gentleness of products, reputation, ingredient combinations, exclusive technologies, price, brand research background, and packaging, with around 20% placing significant importance on packaging. This demonstrates that cosmetics not only emphasize product functionality but also encompass cultural and personalized characteristics.
- Clinical Practice Cases of Innovative Peptide Ingredients in Dermatological Science
Next, we delve into the application of innovative peptide ingredients in clinical practice within dermatological science. Peptides, composed of amino acids smaller than proteins, are easily absorbed through the skin and act precisely, making them a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. They play a crucial role not only in cosmetics but also in the development of biopharmaceuticals for disease treatment, garnering attention for their targeted regulatory capabilities.
Peptides are categorized into signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter peptides, cosmetic peptides, and more, each type possessing distinct characteristics. Peptides with amino acid sequences shorter than 50 are termed peptides, while those with more than 50 are classified as proteins, such as collagen. Peptides bind with cell membrane receptors, initiating complex biochemical reactions and regulating the prevention of certain conditions.
The main advantages of peptides are as follows:
Firstly, high safety. Peptides are designed following the protein sequences of human amino acids, as the human body’s proteins are also composed of amino acids, resulting in high biocompatibility. Additionally, peptides are biodegradable, and certain enzymes or mechanisms within the body metabolize them, making them gentle and safe.
Secondly, clear mechanism of action. For example, neurotransmitter peptides produce anti-wrinkle effects similar to botulinum toxin by inhibiting facial muscle movement; signal peptides function by regulating specific signaling pathways and factors to achieve their effects. Peptides have a clear mechanism of action, significant biological activity, a defined structure including peptide composition, amino acid quantity, and spatial configuration.
Thirdly, high biological activity. By selecting specific highly active amino acids in proteins to synthesize peptides with clear targets, peptides align with the concepts of precision medicine and skincare. Peptides have concentrated effects, producing results at low concentrations.
Therefore, peptides exhibit significant advantages in product formulation and transdermal absorption, explaining why they are so popular today.
Currently, many companies in China are focusing on peptide research, such as the teams led by Wei Qiding and Qian Zong. Currently, peptides are being enhanced for transdermal absorption through techniques like lipid encapsulation and self-assembling supramolecules. By utilizing methods such as long-chain fatty acid modification, metal chelation, and amino acid substitution, core technologies are being developed to create safer and more effective novel peptides. Improving degradation methods can enhance stability, transdermal penetrability, and bioavailability, while scale production can help lower prices, making them more accessible.
In the pharmaceutical field, cyclic peptides are receiving attention due to their differences from traditional polypeptides. I have researched the role of non-coding RNA in photoaging and found that linear RNA is unstable and easily hydrolyzed, while cyclic RNA is stable and easily absorbed, similar to the characteristics of cyclic peptides.
Specifically, cyclic peptides have three major advantages:
Firstly, precise targeting. The structure sites of cyclic peptides are easily exposed, facilitating binding with cell receptors for more precise and efficient effects.
Secondly, lasting efficacy. Cyclic peptides, being stable and not easily hydrolyzed, exhibit enduring effects.
Thirdly, deep action. With a smaller structure, cyclic peptides are easily absorbed through the skin, less prone to tissue breakdown, leading to prolonged and deeper effects.
Therefore, cyclic peptides possess characteristics that traditional linear peptides cannot match, which is why they are receiving significant attention. Especially since 2020, China has witnessed the accelerated development of peptides with numerous enterprises engaging in research and production, with cyclic hexapeptide-9 standing out as a prominent new material.
A prime example is X-Peptide, which innovates across raw materials, brands, and formulations. X-Peptide replenishes lost collagen using recombinant collagen, promotes synthesis with cyclic hexapeptide-9, and achieves immediate anti-wrinkle effects by restricting facial muscle activity with neuropeptides. This combination offers an excellent innovative solution. X-Peptide notably enhances the synthesis of collagen types 7 and 17, garnering in-depth research attention from figures like Qian Zong.
Artificial skin simulation experiments demonstrate the significant role of peptides in enhancing collagen production, with results visible through fluorescence comparisons.
We compared the anti-aging effects of home beauty devices with products containing “X-Peptide” through human clinical efficacy tests. The results indicate that home beauty devices have a slower onset, gradually approaching effectiveness over time, whereas products containing the X combination peptide show more pronounced and rapid effects initially. In terms of elasticity, skin density, apple cheeks, jawline clarity, and other aspects, X-Peptide products demonstrate faster effectiveness than home beauty devices, with slightly superior final results. This clearly illustrates that topically applied products containing X-Peptides excel in anti-wrinkle, firming, and lifting effects, producing results faster than both standalone home beauty devices and medical aesthetics.
- Prospects for the Application of Peptide Ingredients in Anti-Aging Skincare Products
Currently, there are over ten new peptide raw materials in China, with cyclic hexapeptide-9 being the first self-developed brand with patented ingredients. Cyclic hexapeptide-9 has been validated for safety and efficacy, and I believe it will increasingly be applied in skincare products in the future, bringing about more innovations. Based on current results, combining peptide products with home beauty devices may enhance anti-aging effects. For consumers, this is a safe and effective complementary solution that can be combined with topical products at home to achieve better anti-aging results.
Thank you all.
