On October 22nd, the 2024 (10th) China Cosmetics Trends Conference, hosted by CHAILEEDO and supported by NBC, Trautec, Winkey, and COSMAX, was held in Shanghai!
This conference, themed “Technology Anti-Aging,” saw leading beauty and cosmetics companies from China and internationally sharing the latest trends in technological anti-aging. Concurrently, numerous companies along the cosmetics industry supply chain exhibited their latest products and technologies. During the meeting, Xu Gongqi, Director of Skincare Development Laboratory at L’Oréal China Research and Innovation Center, presents the theme of “Technology Anti-Aging: Researching Innovative Solutions for Chinese Consumers.”
Respected guests, good afternoon!
I am Xu Gongqi from the Skincare Research and Development Laboratory at L’Oréal China Research and Innovation Center. Today, it is my great honor to represent the L’Oréal Group and share with you our thoughts on scientific anti-aging aspects, hoping to draw attention from the industry and jointly develop more innovative solutions that are better suited to Chinese consumers.
Firstly, let me briefly introduce L’Oréal’s research and development capabilities. L’Oréal’s R&D team is one of the largest in the global beauty industry, with nearly 4,000 scientists. L’Oréal’s founder, Eugène Schueller, was a chemist himself, and since the company’s inception, L’Oréal has been continuously advancing beauty technology and innovation for 115 years. We have a large basic and cutting-edge scientific research team and have already developed around 130 specialized molecules.
In 2023, the L’Oréal Group invested up to 1.2 billion euros (approximately 9.2 billion RMB) in global research and development and established nearly 20 research centers worldwide. Each year, we introduce about 3,400 new formulas and conduct over 17,000 product tests. The reason for establishing research centers around the world is because we believe that innovation should be close to consumers’ needs. The mission of research and innovation in China is to focus on Chinese consumers and develop beauty solutions that meet their needs.
Next, I would like to briefly summarize L’Oréal’s core concepts in scientific anti-aging, which can be summarized in four dimensions:
First, innovation genes and pioneering spirit.
Second, active ingredient technology.
Third, application of formula technology.
Fourth, professional efficacy evaluation centered on consumers.
Next, I will provide some specific examples for each dimension.
First, innovation genes and pioneering spirit.
I believe that innovation in beauty can be very pure. As we pursue the path of beauty and health, we continuously create new products to bring well-being to consumers. This pure spirit is well exemplified in L’Oréal’s research on glycans.
As early as the 1990s, L’Oréal began researching glycans based on glycobiology innovation. By comparing the skin tissues of young and aging skin, we found that glycosaminoglycans are key molecules. Sugars have diverse signaling functions in biology, serving as an important biological language alongside nucleic acids and proteins.
We refer to sugars as the “three major biological languages.” They are one of the most important biological signals besides nucleic acids and proteins. Polysaccharides play various roles at different levels of cells, including as structural components between cells, communication functions on the surface, and metabolic functions within cells.
Between 1999 and 2000, the advanced team started research based on xylose molecules using green chemistry synthesis techniques. Led by Dr. Maria Dalko, a senior scientist at L’Oréal’s advanced center, the team developed over 200 different xylose derivatives. Through rigorous screening in multiple dimensions, including safety, efficacy, stability, and skin absorption rate, the Pro-Xylane molecule was eventually selected. Pro-Xylane was successfully developed in 2000 and after over five years of product development, it was officially applied in the first product in 2006.
From 2006 to the present, Pro-Xylane has become one of the most well-known active molecules in the anti-aging field. Last summer, when I met with Dr. Maria Dalko in Paris, I told her that Pro-Xylane is widely recognized among beauty enthusiasts in China. Dr. Maria, who is about to retire, mentioned that her proudest achievement in her career is the development of Pro-Xylane. This dedication and deep cultivation provide a model for science-based innovation.
Currently, the biological application of Pro-Xylane is very unique. In the epidermal layer, it can promote the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, resulting in a plumping effect; at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), it can enhance elasticity; and in the dermal layer, it has a tightening effect. We have invested heavily in clinical trials at the cellular level.
It is worth mentioning that we conducted a year-long double-blind clinical trial, comparing with a control group and a placebo group, and the results showed that the effects of Pro-Xylane on improving skin condition, wrinkles, radiance, and elasticity were evident.
Although Pro-Xylane has a considerable history, it is still evolving. L’Oréal is currently conducting in-depth research on the application of Pro-Xylane in different scenarios such as skin self-repair and wound healing, exploring its ideal concentration and its combination with other active ingredients.
Therefore, Pro-Xylane is a typical example of L’Oréal’s over 20 years of research and development. Currently, there are over 12 related scientific publications, and the rigorous and numerous clinical trials have led to over 70 application patents of Pro-Xylane globally.
Second, Active Ingredient Technology
Today, I want to delve into the topic of active ingredient technology with everyone. What is the core of technology? As mentioned this morning, our pursuit of active ingredients lies in safety, efficiency, and stability. Therefore, whether it’s optimizing raw material quality, the synergistic effects between ingredients, or using carriers to enhance bioavailability, these are all important application directions in ingredient technology.
Here, I’d like to share a case study with you about yue sai. yue sai is a well-known Chinese domestic brand, previously acquired by L’Oréal. What sets yue sai apart is its integration of core ingredients from both Chinese and Western technologies. For example, we have applied Pro-Xylane acid in the Cordyceps series, while also incorporating the essence of traditional Chinese medicine. Take the example of a complex formula suitable for women over 50, containing ginseng microcapsule essence and a five-fold peptide. This combination of ingredients is strongly supported by technology, based on L’Oréal’s research on skin aging patterns, analyzing structural changes in the skin of over 400 Asian women of different age groups to more precisely design the most ideal active ingredients.
Another example is the yue sai Cordyceps Golden Silk series, where through the selection of different traditional Chinese medicine ingredients, we discovered that the combination of fermented cordyceps extract and swiftlet nest acid significantly protects collagen, further combined with a 21% Pro-Xylane acid solution to enhance its anti-aging effects.
Next, I would like to discuss the application of formula technology using this example. In short, we seek “to have, and to have, and to have.” We aim for the optimal active ingredients to achieve the desired effects while also enhancing their absorption and bioavailability. To achieve this, we have utilized a patented Pro-Xylane acid intelligent delivery technology in the Golden Silk Cream, temporarily opening the sebum film to enhance the absorption of Pro-Xylane acid. Microscopic imaging shows that this dual penetration technology has significantly better permeability than typical creams.
The “to have, and to have, and to have” mentioned refers to the skin feel. We know that Chinese consumers have particularly strict requirements for the feel of products globally. Therefore, since 2018, L’Oréal’s China Research and Innovation Center has collected Chinese women’s demands for ideal skin feel, including “non-sticky and easy to apply,” among others. Through quantifiable physical and chemical parameters (such as viscosity, affinity, etc.) combined with scientific experimental design and model predictions, we have ultimately designed products that meet the skin feel requirements of Chinese women.
Third, Application of Formula Technology
yue sai is committed to achieving a balance between moisturizing and lightness, which is reflected in the unique texture of the Golden Silk Cream. This cream has good absorbency, is extremely moisturizing, and has been refined through over 400 formula iterations, incorporating the preferences of Chinese women for texture.
Moreover, I would like to briefly introduce the Ziyao Age-Reversing series. This series is designed specifically for women over 50, targeting their unique aging characteristics compared to younger women, especially structural aging. Thus, we have used a 15% five-layer peptide solution combined with ginseng microcapsule technology to more effectively absorb active ingredients into the skin. The skin feel and immediate effects of this series are based on a five-year study involving over 1,000 women from 12 cities in China, resulting in eight patents and presenting a unique consumer experience of radiance, fullness, nourishment, envelopment, lubrication, and penetration.
Fourth, Consumer-Centric Professional Efficacy Evaluation
As a senior formulator, I understand the importance of professional efficacy evaluation. Developing an ideal formula requires a precise evaluation system, much like a compass.
The case study shared today is about L’Oréal Paris’ Eye Cream. I believe everyone is familiar with this product. It is a full-face anti-wrinkle eye cream launched in 2018, with over 5.2 million units sold domestically as of this year. Based on feedback from over 1,800 Chinese women, we have developed eight patented technologies.
Professor Lai mentioned this morning that the demand among Chinese women for anti-aging products starts around the age of 20, which differs significantly from Western countries. Based on this observation, when developing products targeting eye wrinkles, we noticed that the dynamic wrinkles around the eyes in women in their twenties are mostly caused by expression. These lines may appear and disappear with facial expressions, but over time they accumulate and eventually become static wrinkles. Therefore, we are committed to intervening early at the source of dynamic wrinkles, exploring how to address fine lines caused by expressions.
However, at that time, most wrinkle evaluation systems were based on static wrinkles, lacking a scientific evaluation method for dynamic wrinkles. To develop effective products, we designed an innovative clinical trial system specifically for Chinese consumers at our research center in China, with dynamic wrinkle assessment at its core, including hardware design, image analysis software applications, experimental methods, and a complete data analysis chain.
This “dynamic wrinkle assessment method” utilizes high-speed imaging devices combined with precise image analysis systems, allowing us to evaluate the four major dynamic wrinkles around the eyes, nasolabial folds, forehead, and crow’s feet in more detail. This evaluation method was presented at last year’s WCD conference and is currently undergoing PCT patent application.
Through this evaluation method, our Eye Cream can significantly improve expression lines after 4 weeks of use. This product embodies our deep understanding of Chinese consumer needs and represents our commitment to scientific research and development. I hope that in the future, when you browse product pages or see L’Oreal Eye Cream, you can appreciate its scientific value.
That concludes my brief sharing. Due to time constraints, I have briefly outlined four core dimensions from the perspective of L’Oréal’s technological anti-aging efforts. Finally, let me once again present L’Oréal’s research mission: “Create beauty that moves the world,” and I hope that all of us here in the industry can inspire each other.
Thank you for listening.
