The research results showed that Urolithin A enhanced various indicators of skin aging, such as reducing wrinkle depth and promoting the upregulation of genes linked to collagen production and organization, while simultaneously suppressing genes associated with collagen degradation. Notably, Urolithin A demonstrated the ability to enhance skin health without causing the irritation commonly associated with other wrinkle-reducing products like those based on retinol.
The study further showed that Urolithin A effectively enhanced the resilience of skin cells when exposed to the harmful effects of UV light, making it a valuable tool in combating the external factors linked to aging.
Hematopoietic stem cells (HSCs) play a crucial role in maintaining our immune health by generating all blood and immune cells throughout our lifespan. However, as we grow older, the functionality of these cells decreases, contributing significantly to the deterioration of our immune system. One major factor in these age-related alterations is the accumulation of mitochondria in HSCs.
One of the ways Urolithin A works is by inducing mitophagy and stimulating the generation of healthy mitochondria, which are crucial for healthy immune cells. Timeline’s research suggests that Urolithin A shows potential in revitalizing aged blood stem cells, offering a prospect for enhancing immune function and overall health, particularly in the elderly.
Barbara Lavernos, deputy chief executive officer and in charge of research, innovation, and technology at L’Oréal said, “Longevity is about living healthier for longer, and L’Oréal has been working for more than a decade to understand and anticipate what this could mean for beauty. Our investment in Timeline is exciting for its potential to transpose key hallmarks of longevity onto skin health and beauty.”
In recent years, longevity biotechnology has become an increasingly prominent area of focus in the fields of health and science, gaining heightened attention in the beauty industry as well. In December 2023, Estée Lauder announced the launch of a new skincare longevity platform alongside its latest product, the Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Transformative Brilliance Soft Crème, featuring their exclusive patented SIRTIVITY-LP™ technology.
Estée Lauder considers this as the next frontier in the skincare industry, and the entry of L’Oréal into this space underscores the significance of longevity technology.
Three acquisitions in less than a month
In early 2024, the fervor for beauty industry transactions continues. This year, L’Occitane acquired the Italian home fragrance brand, Dr. Vranjes Firenze, while the Spanish beauty and fashion conglomerate Puig secured a majority stake in the German luxury skincare brand Dr. Barbara Sturm. Additionally, investment firm Compass Diversified revealed the acquisition of a majority stake in the plant-derived feminine care brand The Honey Pot Company.
As the global leader in the beauty industry, L’Oréal also made three significant acquisitions in less than a month. What sets L’Oréal apart from other companies acquiring beauty brands is that its recent acquisitions are focused on the technology sector, marking a shift in its acquisition strategy this year.
On Jan 9th, L’Oréal announced to purchase of the outstanding shares of Gjosa, a Switzerland-based company at the forefront of water fractioning technology. This was the first investment for L’Oréal in 2024.
L’Oréal said the company has already started a partnership with Gjosa to launch the L’Oréal Professionnel Water Saver professional showerhead, named in TIME Magazine’s “100 Best Inventions of the Year” in 2021. This product made its debut at the 2021 Consumer Electronics Show and is suitable for both home and exhibition settings. Launched at the China International Import Expo the same year, the L’Oréal water-saving device is easy to install and use, resembling a showerhead that can be connected to the nozzle. The water-saving device features three slots designed for various hair care products such as shampoo, conditioner, and essential oils.
The patented water fragmentation technology featured in the L’Oréal Professionnel Water Saver by Gjosa enables hair salons to decrease water usage at the back bar by as much as 69%, while still providing clients with an enjoyable and thorough hair-washing experience. Since 2023, this environmentally friendly showerhead has been implemented in over 10,000 professional hair salons throughout Europe and the Middle East, resulting in a conservation of over 182 million liters of water, equivalent to 72 Olympic-sized swimming pools.
In 2021, L’Oréal initially disclosed a minority investment in Gjosa through its corporate venture capital fund, BOLD (Business Opportunities for L’Oréal Development). L’Oréal emphasized that this acquisition serves to enhance the company’s commitments under “L’Oréal for the Future,” which involves adopting a thorough and science-driven strategy toward water management. This ensures that L’Oréal’s operations align with the defined planetary boundaries as recognized by the scientific community. The primary objective of this acquisition is to drive innovation and expand the use of Gjosa’s technology in various beauty applications.
On the same day as announcing the acquisition of Gjosa, L’Oréal disclosed its second investment of the year. Through its corporate venture fund, BOLD, the French beauty giant made a minority equity investment in a Chinese hardware startup called Zuvi, founded by drone engineers and leading scientists.
During the 2024 CES, L’Oréal introduced AirLight Pro, a cutting-edge hair-drying tool created in collaboration with professional stylists for use by both beauty professionals and consumers at home. Developed in partnership with Zuvi, AirLight Pro utilizes a blend of infrared-light technology and airflow to promote hair health, resulting in visually smoother and more hydrated hair. Additionally, it accelerates the drying process by optimizing heat distribution across various hair types and consumes up to 31% less energy.
Utilizing their patented LightCare™ technology in a hair dryer, Zuvi created an initial product that employs infrared light and high-speed airflow to effectively dry the surface of the hair, preserving internal moisture within the hair strands. A collaborative effort involving more than 100 engineers, designers, hairdressers, and scientists from L’Oréal’s Research & Innovation Division and Zuvi was dedicated to the innovative industrial design of AirLight Pro. This professional-grade hair-drying tool surpasses performance barriers.
The acquisition of the Swiss longevity biotechnology company Timeline marks L’Oréal’s third acquisition in less than a month as the new year begins, and all these acquisitions are related to innovative technologies. In recent years, L’Oréal has undergone a shift in its acquisition strategy, gradually transitioning towards beauty technology companies.
Transitioning to a beauty tech company
Mergers and acquisitions, especially those involving beauty brands, are the fastest and most effective means of expanding product portfolios and increasing a company’s influence. Over its more than a century of development, L’Oréal has expanded its brand portfolio to over 40 through acquisitions, making it the world’s largest beauty conglomerate. Faced with the rapidly changing market landscape, L’Oréal has begun transitioning its corporate strategy towards beauty technology companies, marking a shift in its approach to acquisition investments.
In 2023, despite a slowdown in global beauty industry acquisitions, L’Oréal still completed approximately seven significant acquisitions. Among these, only the acquisition of Aesop involved directly acquiring a brand, while the rest focused on biotechnology or hard technology-related enterprises.
In 2018, L’Oréal initiated the Beauty Tech strategy based on its digital system, declaring its ambition to become the “leading beauty tech company.” In 2018, L’Oréal began investing in technology companies. In March of the same year, L’Oréal acquired 100% of the shares of Canadian technology company ModiFace, a leader in augmented reality and artificial intelligence in the beauty industry. ModiFace utilized proprietary technology for tracking facial features and skin tones to develop advanced services such as 3D virtual makeup, color, and skin diagnostic services. In 2018, when artificial intelligence was not as popular, L’Oréal’s entry into this space appears to be a forward-looking and visionary investment.
In 2023, L’Oréal made five notable investments in the technology sector. These included participation from its venture capital fund, BOLD, and the British Fashion Council in the $4 million funding round for Digital Village, a French metaverse developer. L’Oréal also acquired a minority stake in Shinehigh Innovation, a Chinese biotechnology company focused on innovative supramolecular chemistry. The company further acquired Lactobio, a Danish probiotics biotechnology firm, and the American biotechnology company Debut. Additionally, L’Oréal invested in the artificial intelligence startup Rembrand. These moves underscore L’Oréal’s investment focus in recent years, emphasizing both hard & core technology and biotechnology.
At the Paris tech and startup expo VivaTech in June and the 6th China International Import Expo in early November last year, L’Oréal showcased its latest technology achievements. Including inclusive beauty tech solutions such as HAPTA from Lancôme, designed to enable people with physical limitations to apply makeup; diagnostic and coaching tools, such as La Roche-Posay SPOTSCAN, META PROFILER™ by Giorgio Armani and Kérastase K-SCAN; personalized beauty tech solutions such as 3D shu:brow by shu uemura for a professional eyebrow look at home, L’Oréal Paris COLORSONIC for a mess-free even at-home hair color and the Maybelline Beauty App virtual makeover.
