2023 is winding down, and as the impact of the pandemic gradually diminishes, the global cosmetics industry has witnessed new growth opportunities. Several heavyweight conferences, both domestically and internationally, have reopened, attracting numerous industry insiders to discuss the sector’s development. Whether in investment strategies, product development, or technological research, beauty giants worldwide have been quite active. As we approach the end of 2023, what are some of the new trends in the global beauty industry?
The comprehensive safety assessment of cosmetics in China has attracted attention
Recently, within China’s beauty sector, the comprehensive safety assessment has emerged as a leading discussion point. New regulations, effective from May 1st next year, mandate the submission of complete safety assessment reports for registering or filing cosmetics. Unlike the simplified version, this demands more toxicological details for each ingredient used in the formula. Compliance with this comprehensive assessment report will be obligatory for product registration and filing, implying that products without this assessment may face hurdles in their launch process.
During the Zhongguancun Forum series event, specifically the 2023 Forum on Beauty Economy and Sustainability, which is part of the ZGC Forum series, Dr. Yu Zhenxi, Deputy Director of the Cosmetic Safety Evaluation Center at the National Institutes for Food and Drug Control, shared thoughts on safety assessment concerns. He emphasized the essential nature of the comprehensive safety assessment, highlighting its status as the prevailing direction for the entire industry.
The National Institutes for Food and Drug Control clarified their lack of information about delaying the introduction of the comprehensive safety assessment. As a result, companies are advised to proactively ready themselves for this comprehensive assessment. Following the Technical Guidelines for Cosmetic Safety Assessment and transitional phase directives, as of May 1st, 2024, the submission of thorough safety assessment reports will become mandatory. Businesses should concentrate on nurturing talent, enhancing the gathering of toxicological information, and technically preparing to comply with this mandate.
During the conference and in an exclusive interview with CHAILEEDO, Gerald Renner, overseeing Technical Regulatory and International Affairs at Cosmetics Europe, underscored the crucial nature of safety assessment.
In his conference address, Gerald Renner highlighted the paramount importance of safety assessment as the primary concern confronting the cosmetics sector, emphasizing the need for a seamless transition into 2024. Evaluating the safety of cosmetics is crucial as exposure to certain hazardous substances upon skin contact can potentially endanger the entire body.
Moreover, responding to the growing consumer inclination toward natural and non-toxic ingredients, the European Union’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) incorporated botanical materials into their safety assessment for the first time this year.
In his interview with CHAILEEDO, Gerald Renner underscored Europe’s historical struggles with cosmetic safety assessment and emphasized the critical role of safety assessment in the industry’s growth. Renner proposed that setting up a comprehensive safety assessment framework and network structure for China’s cosmetics industry is a prolonged journey requiring significant time and dedication. This process will necessitate learning and adaptation for raw material suppliers, manufacturers, and brand owners. Nevertheless, gaining familiarity with safety assessments over time will significantly bolster the industry’s advancement.
Dermatology become a focal point for beauty giants
Amid the gradual easing of pandemic restrictions this year, the global beauty industry witnessed a continuous stream of summits and exhibitions. Events like the IFSCC held in Barcelona, the return of the Cosmoprof-Asia to Hong Kong, the Zhongguancun Forum series held in Beijing, and the CBE in Shanghai, have marked this year’s calendar.
However, the most notable among these was the 25th World Congress of Dermatology (WCD) held in Singapore. As one of the largest global gatherings in dermatology, occurring every four years, the event attracted leading beauty giants such as Procter & Gamble, L’Oréal, Unilever, and Estée Lauder, showcasing their latest advancements in dermatology.
During this WCD, L’Oréal presented its new research on ceramides, highlighting their crucial role in maintaining and repairing the skin’s protective barrier. Estée Lauder also shared its latest anti-aging research findings at the 2023 WCD.
Additionally, Unilever’s skincare and haircare brands, including Dove, Vaseline, Nutrafol, and Clear R, were also exhibited at the WCD. Unilever’s booth at this event showcased these brands alongside the latest breakthrough technologies from the Pond’s Institute.
Apart from international beauty giants, China’s leading sensitive skin care enterprise, BTN, participated in this conference for the third consecutive time. During this WCD, VENOMEER unveiled various research outcomes, including the effects of prickly pear seed oil on a new target for sensitive skin—Claudin-5, international clinical results of products like Winona Soothing Moisture Cream, and clinical observations on the use of Winona Baby Soothing Cream for treating atopic dermatitis in infants aged 0-2.
Besides the international market, China also hosted forums related to dermatology.
From December 7th to 10th, the 18th Annual Meeting of the China Dermatologist Association & National Congress of Cosmetic Dermatology(referred to as CDA), was held in Shanghai. The event was organized by the Chinese Medical Doctor Association and China Dermatologist Association.
At this CDA event, numerous Chinese brands made appearances, including JOYOU, a skincare brand positioned as dermatologist-grade since its inception. Dr. Cheng Jing, Chief Scientific Officer of Yatsen Holding, shared the latest developments from the DR.WU Skin Lesion Research Fund, presenting various clinical research outcomes conducted in partnership with top-tier hospitals.
HBN presented three newly published international SCI journal papers, bridging gaps in the industry regarding systemic cross-research on retinoids and their derivatives, offering fresh perspectives for research and technological development in anti-photoaging products.
Beyond Chinese brands, internationally recognized brands such as La Roche-Posay under L’Oréal and Clinique under Estée Lauder also participated in this CDA event. Their involvement in a Chinese dermatology forum affirms the industry’s global recognition of dermatology’s significance. Moreover, the strategic moves and performances of some international beauty giants further validate the prominence of dermatology in their business strategies and achievements.
Attention to botanical ingredients
Beyond focusing on skincare categories rooted in dermatology, both in China and the international market, there’s a shared emphasis on botanical ingredients, notably in ingredients.
According to research firm Fact. MR, the natural skincare market is projected to reach a market value of around $13.4 billion by 2032. The growing preference for natural skincare has elevated the significance of botanical ingredients and organic ingredients.
Firstly, ingredient suppliers continue to advance the utilization of botanical and organic ingredients.
In February this year, Deliflor established a partnership with Israeli biotech firm Synergio, acquiring a minority stake. Synergio specializes in employing advanced ingredients technology to develop natural and sustainable solutions for consumer goods.
On February 6th, Givaudan announced a groundbreaking launch of the anti-aging ingredient RetiLife™, a 100% naturally sourced retinol serving as a sustainable alternative to chemically synthesized retinol. RetiLife™ comprises components sourced entirely from natural origins, utilizing microbial processes within plant sugar fermentation to generate pure retinol naturally encapsulated in an ingredients carrier, combined with natural antioxidants to preserve its efficacy.
As early as 2020, BASF had become the largest global supplier of natural and organic cosmetic ingredients. In October this year, within the BASF Aroma Ingredients portfolio, the Isobionics® brand launched two new natural products in the fragrance market. Isobionics® Natural alpha-Bisabolene 98 and Isobionics® Natural (-)-alpha-Bisabolol 99. Isobionics® Natural (-)-alpha-Bisabolol is a well-known product traditionally derived from natural sources, renowned for its intricate and captivating scent. It is celebrated for its delicate floral notes, complemented by a subtle hint of chamomile.
Moreover, brands are prioritizing botanical ingredients for their future product development.
As a frontrunner in the global beauty industry, L’Oréal has expressed that a significant portion of its products are derived from plants. It considers biodiversity as a crucial source of innovation and is committed to responsibly sourcing materials sustainably. L’Oréal aims that by 2030, 95% of its product formulas will be composed of renewable botanical or enriched mineral ingredients.
In recent years, the surge in clean beauty can also be attributed to products dedicated to utilizing natural botanical ingredients. This trend has led to substantial investments by international beauty giants into clean beauty. Examples include Shiseido’s acquisition of clean beauty brand Drunk Elephant, Unilever’s acquisition of clean beauty brands REN and Tatcha, and Amorepacific’s acquisition of US clean beauty brand Tata Harper.
Chinese brands are exploring Chinese ingredients
In the Chinese market, botanical ingredients have also been a focal point for the development efforts of Chinese brands. These brands have been actively seeking botanical ingredients that represent distinct Chinese characteristics, aiming to establish differentiation and compete with international brands.
At the 2023 8th Conference on China Cosmetics Trends hosted by CHAILEEDO in October this year, both emerging and established Chinese brands prioritized botanical ingredients for their product development.
At the conference, Wang Feifei, BTN’s Vice President, highlighted the brand’s distinguishing factor: their utilization of distinctive botanical ingredients sourced from Yunnan.
BTN’s array of unique botanical ingredients includes PrinsepiautilisＲoyle, Portulaca oleracea, and Yunnan Camellia. PrinsepiautilisＲoyle originates from the Shangri-La snow mountain, thriving at an altitude of approximately 3,200 meters, boasting potent vitality and repair capabilities. Portulaca oleracea, an annual herbaceous plant, undergoes BTN’s patented extraction technology to extract its essence, effectively mitigating skin irritation, fortifying skin tolerance, and reducing sensitivity through its anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic attributes. Yunnan Camellia, found at around 2,800 meters above sea level, has undergone five years of research in BTN’s laboratory to maximize the beauty effects of its flowers and seeds. The petal extract renders the skin translucent and radiant, while the seed extract moisturizes and enhances translucency.
In her keynote speech on “Root-Seeking” at the BATHFEEL brand, founder Li Li spotlighted the distinctive Chinese botanical ingredient, Red Pine Nut Oil. This oil, abundant in unique pinoresinol and unsaturated fatty acids, primarily originates from China’s Changbai Mountains, Jilin, and the Greater and Lesser Khingan Mountains.
Li Li elaborated that common skincare challenges faced by Oriental women stem from underdeveloped sebaceous glands due to genetic factors, excessive cleansing, and body care products that fail to address practical issues, leading to dullness, dryness, bumps, and itchiness. She stressed that body skin tends to be drier than facial skin. To address this, BATHFEEL integrates a significant amount of natural plant oils into its products, resembling “sebum-like films” easily accepted by the stratum corneum.
During her presentation at the conference, Lin Yuting, the co-founder of GrainRain, a prominent domestic brand specializing in whitening products using Chinese licorice, emphasized the distinctive qualities of Glycyrrhiza glabra, a Chinese characteristic. GrainRain’s research revealed that the stratum corneum of Chinese individuals tends to be thinner, highly sensitive to light, and easily influenced by external factors, leading to increased susceptibility to darkening. In contrast to the direct and aggressive nature of Western chemical treatments, Oriental plant extracts are perceived as milder yet highly effective. Glycyrrhiza glabra stands out as a safe, gentle ingredient that doesn’t require tolerance building, allows exposure to sunlight, and achieves efficient whitening through four major pathways.
Lin Yuting highlighted that GrainRain’s ingredient portfolio currently encompasses 119 botanical ingredients, with 12 unique to China. These include Glycyrrhiza uralensis, Chinese Lingzhi, Chinese ginseng, peony, osmanthus, Rehmannia chinensis, Houttuynia cordata, soapberry, Salvia miltiorrhiza, Lycium barbarum, mulberry, Guangxi sand mandarin. These unique Chinese botanical ingredients hold significant potential for exploration and are better suited for the preferences of Chinese consumers.
Microbiome skincare is gaining popularity
In recent times, major players in the beauty industry have turned their attention to microbiome skincare.
Johnson & Johnson made a Series A investment in 2020 in Dermala, a probiotics personal care brand. Dermala focuses on dermatology, pioneering personalized solutions based on the microbiome for conditions like acne.
In 2019, Dermala introduced the #FOBO® Kit, an acne solution rooted in microbiome technology. This comprehensive approach includes topical treatments, oral supplements, and the Dermala Acne Tracker app, enabling users to track and manage their skin’s health.
In 2022, there has been a notable surge in major companies investing in microbiome-focused skincare.
Procter & Gamble made headlines in February 2022 with its acquisition of Tula Skincare, a brand known for its probiotic-based skincare line. Founded by a gastroenterologist, Tula emphasizes probiotics and superfoods in its products. The brand was co-founded by gastroenterologist Roshini Raj, Ken Landis from Bobbi Brown, and tech entrepreneur Dan Reich, with investments from L Catterton, an LVMH-affiliated fund.
On February 28, 2022, Shiseido revealed its acquisition of Gallinée, a UK-based prebiotic skincare brand. Established in 2014 by microbiome expert Marie Drago, Gallinée focuses on balancing the skin microbiome, fortifying the skin barrier, nurturing beneficial bacteria, and promoting skin health. Headquartered in London, Gallinée was founded by French pharmacist Marie Drago in 2016 and had received prior investment from Unilever.
Gallinée’s skincare range incorporates a patented blend of prebiotics, probiotics, and lactic acid, fostering the growth of beneficial skin bacteria. With a product lineup comprising 17 items catering to facial, body, hair, and oral care, the brand primarily operates within the French and UK markets.
Shiseido Group aims to bolster its foothold in the premium skincare sector by intensifying microbial research at its European innovation center, focusing on the skincare microbiome niche.
Beiersdorf made public on December 16 its acquisition of a controlling interest in S-Biomedic, a Belgian biotech firm. S-Biomedic specializes in investigating the delicate equilibrium of skin microbiomes and harnessing live skin bacteria as cosmetic ingredients. Presently, S-Biomedic is in the process of developing new natural live probiotics and postbiotics tailored for skin application, launching the micro-ecological skincare brand, Sencyr.
