In the post-pandemic era, the relationship between emotions, sensory perception, and skincare has increasingly attracted attention from the industry and consumers. It is precisely because of this that the research and achievements in neuroscience have come into people’s view.
Neuroscience, traditionally considered a complex scientific field studying the brain, psychological emotions, and sensory experiences, has now intersected with the field of skincare. It is understood that since the beginning of the 21st century, cosmetics emphasizing the concept of Neurocosmetics have become popular, gradually becoming a new direction for industry exploration in recent years.
Recently, a team of industry experts invited by Jinan University, together with the sensory functional care brand “aesthesis” (referred to as “ae”), released the “Neurocosmetics White Paper.” This paper, for the first time, establishes a comprehensive theoretical system for Neurocosmetics in a systematic manner, providing guidance for research and development of scientifically-based Neurocosmetics. The ae brand is also the first Chinese brand dedicated to Neurocosmetics research, filling the gap in this field in the Chinese cosmetics industry.
The first “Neurocosmetics White Paper” in China has been officially released
Public information shows that in 2004, Professor Laurent Misery, from the Laboratory of Cutaneous Neurobiology at the University of Brest in France, first proposed the concept of Neurocosmetics. It is defined as “local products that are non-toxic, non-reabsorbable, and have reliable activity on the skin’s nervous system or neurochemical transmitters.” In general, Neurocosmetics skincare products can influence consumer purchasing behavior not only through unique sensory experiences (visual, auditory, olfactory, taste, and tactile) brought about by packaging design or product texture but also through the active ingredients added to Neurocosmetics products. These ingredients can intervene in the transmission of neural signals on the skin or the communication between skin nerves and other cells, aiming to maintain skin health and youthfulness.
By incorporating principles and methods from neuroscience into the field of cosmetics, Neurocosmetics has opened up a new path for research and development and provided scientific theoretical support for cosmetics.
Since then, cosmetics featuring the Neurocosmetics concept have gradually gained popularity. Major players such as Kiehl’s and BASF have made strategic moves in this area, and international brands like Shiseido and Lancôme have also invested in researching the connection between skin and the brain. Many active ingredients in Neurocosmetics have attracted industry attention due to their unique mechanisms of action and multiple potential uses, such as soothing, anti-aging, and reducing inflammatory reactions. Some ingredients even claim to have mood-regulating effects.
Especially after the 2021 Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine was awarded to neuroscientists David Julius and Ardem Patapoutian for their discoveries of temperature and touch receptors, Neurocosmetics has become increasingly popular in the field of cosmetic development. Data shows that the global Neurocosmetics product market is rapidly expanding and is expected to exceed $2.69 billion by 2030, with a compound annual growth rate of 8.4%.
Although Neurocosmetics is not a new concept globally, its development in China has not been as active, and there are very few brands conducting in-depth research on it. In this context, in order to help the industry and the public better understand Neurocosmetics and promote knowledge about Neurocosmetics, Jinan University, in collaboration with ae, a subsidiary of Guangzhou Shengjing Shang Mei Biotechnology Co., Ltd., released China’s first “Neurocosmetics White Paper.”
It is reported that the “White Paper” mainly starts from the theoretical foundation of Neurocosmetics and systematically elaborates on the interaction between nerve fibers and skin cells. It discusses the key regulatory role of the nervous system in the immediate wrinkle reduction, long-term anti-aging, hair loss prevention, color regulation, and soothing effects on the skin. The mechanisms of odor molecules regulating skin functions are also explained. The paper describes different targets and active substances for various efficacy purposes and provides prospects for the application value of Neurocosmetics. The entire document is divided into seven sections: Neurocosmetics theoretical foundation, Neurocosmetics industry overview, Neurocosmetics efficacy, active substances regulating the nervous system’s cosmetic effects, anti-aging theory based on the nervous system, introduction of Neurocosmetics products, and Neurocosmetics development trends and future prospects.
Liu Zhong, Executive Deputy Dean of the Institute of Cosmetics and Medical Aesthetics at Jinan University, stated that many skin problems, such as photoaging, pigmentation, and sensitivity, can be addressed by utilizing the interaction between Neurocosmetics’ active ingredients and the skin and nervous system. This approach helps promote skin homeostasis and achieve anti-wrinkle, soothing, and other cosmetic effects. “In addition, active ingredients can directly act as modulators of neurotransmitter release at the nerve fiber terminals of the skin or as modulators of neurotransmitter receptors or effects, exerting excitatory or inhibitory functions.”
Liu Zhong further explained that in the field of anti-aging related to the nervous system, functional ingredients that interact with both the nervous and skin systems can be explored. This approach can awaken both neurons and skin cells bidirectionally, thereby activating skin cells to accelerate renewal and eliminate aging factors, achieving long-lasting anti-aging effects from within.
In other words, the release of the “White Paper” is of significant reference value in helping the Chinese people better understand the importance and application potential of Neurocosmetics, as well as providing inspiration for researchers in related fields.
The first Chinese brand dedicated to Neurocosmetics scientific research in China
So, what is the ae brand? Why did it take the lead in releasing the “Neurocosmetics White Paper”?
It is reported that the parent company of the ae brand is Guangzhou Shengjing Shang Mei Biotechnology Co., Ltd. (Guangzhou Shengjing), established in November 2021. It is a new Chinese skincare brand company based on Neurocosmetics science for product development. Zhang Jing, the head of Guangzhou Shengjing, has been engaged in the cosmetics retail industry for more than 20 years and has held executive positions in several listed retail companies. She is committed to returning to the essence of products, creating a series of products that can meet consumers’ functional needs and make them a part of the ideal life.
It is worth mentioning that one of the shareholders of Guangzhou Shengjing, Chengdu Saint Nobel Biotechnology Co., Ltd., was established in 2004. It is a high-tech enterprise with core technologies in peptide synthesis and modification, with advanced and efficient peptide drug process research and development and large-scale production capabilities. The participation of the latter has provided strong technical support for the ae brand.
It is understood that the main business of Chengdu Saint Nobel Biotechnology is the independent research and development, production, and sales of peptide raw materials and formulation products with a large market capacity and strong competitiveness outside China. It has four major peptide production bases, with an estimated annual production of 1200 kg of peptide raw materials and 4000 tons of cosmetic peptide solutions. It has 31 invention patents, 13 utility model patents, 2 PCT international patents, and a large number of non-patent technologies. It has core technologies such as peptide coupling, long-acting chemical modification, and large-scale production, covering the entire industry chain applications of peptide CDMO pharmaceutical services, raw materials, formulations, cosmetic peptides, etc. It has strong research and development and production advantages in the field of Neurocosmetics science materials.
It can be said that the ae brand is not only led by an experienced “industry veteran” who is well versed in the secrets of the cosmetics and retail industry but also has strong research and development capabilities.
Regarding the original intention of establishing the ae brand, Zhang Jing stated that it mainly stems from the increasing demand for emotional skincare after the epidemic. The brand wants to explore the value of emotional skincare, as well as the scientific basis and theory behind it.
Data shows that since 2020, the concept market of “emotional skincare” has continued to expand, with sales increasing threefold year-on-year. Emotional needs have become a new consumer demand. User data shows that in 2023, the volume of emotional skincare increased by 601.43%, and therapeutic skincare skyrocketed by 627.56%, demonstrating the extraordinary market potential in the field of emotional skincare.
On the other hand, Zhang Jing believes that the scientific basis behind emotional skincare is precisely Neurocosmetics science. As the largest sensory organ of the human body, the skin has a large number of nerve endings distributed beneath the stratum corneum. Neurocosmetics active ingredients transmit signals to neural tissues through smell, vision, hearing, touch, taste, etc., and then exert their effects. “The ae brand aims to deepen the exploration of Neurocosmetics science and sensory impact pathways, and explore the essence of skin and life. We will continue to explore Neurocosmetics science and sensory pathway innovations and develop a series of professional facial, body care, and functional fragrance products from a new perspective, bringing consumers efficient, enjoyable, and unique sensory experiences.”
Zhang Jing introduced that the R&D concept of the ae brand is based on the comprehensive application of Neurocosmetics science, sensory, and technological pathways. It introduces differentiated experiences through smell, touch, vision, and hearing, and incorporates plant ingredients, peptides, and core technologies with Neurocosmetics science as the basis to exert targeted product effects. It is reported that the R&D formula of the ae brand is “aesthesis (sensation) = perception perception X awakening perception X stimulating perception,” which is also the origin of the ae brand name.
Ae has launched three products
CHAILEEDO has discovered that the reason ae brand has attracted extensive attention in the industry in a short period of time is due to its strong research and development capabilities and scientific background support. It is understood that ae, a subsidiary of Guangzhou Shengjing Shang Mei Biotechnology Co., Ltd., has gathered a team of top experts from various disciplines such as neuroscience and dermatology to closely collaborate and conduct in-depth research on how emotions affect skin conditions through neural pathways. Based on this research, they have developed a series of products that fundamentally address consumers’ needs for dual-body and mind care.
Currently, based on Neurocosmetics science, ae brand has launched three products: ae Soothing Clear Cleansing Oil, ae Multi-Active Anti-Wrinkle Essence Water, and ae Fine Line Firming Essence Cream.
Among them, ae Fine Line Firming Essence Cream (nicknamed “ae Cream”) is specifically developed based on Neurocosmetics science. It incorporates the core ingredient MYRAMAZE®, derived from the Mirabilis jalapa plant. MYRAMAZE® is the first sensory ingredient that acts on both the olfactory system and the skin. It emits a scent reminiscent of a cool breeze in a pine forest. Research has shown that it activates olfactory receptors, reduces cortisol levels, enhances sensory relaxation and mood, and achieves the effects of reducing wrinkles and improving skin elasticity and brightness. This embodies the “olfactory functionalization” advocated by the ae brand.
In addition, ae Cream also contains two high-concentration active ingredients: Feruloyl Octapeptide-24 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8. “The Feruloyl Octapeptide-24 is the core product of Chengdu Saint Nobel Biotechnology. It is a mimic of μ-conotoxin, acting on various voltage-gated sodium ion channels and nicotinic acetylcholine receptors. It effectively relaxes the facial muscles without causing nerve paralysis, thereby soothing fine lines, reducing expression lines, and preventing static lines,” explained Wen Yongjun, the Chairman of Chengdu Saint Nobel Biotechnology. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 acts on the presynaptic terminals of neurons, inhibiting the release of acetylcholine neurotransmitters, and inhibiting muscle contraction and traction, thus reducing facial expression lines.
It is worth mentioning that in addition to incorporating multiple ingredients with fine line reduction effects, ae Cream also utilizes the cutting-edge “CPP Transdermal Carrier Technology.” This breakthrough technology from Chengdu Saint Nobel Biotechnology allows a large amount of active ingredients to penetrate the skin cell membrane and precisely target the desired skin targets, greatly enhancing the efficacy of bioactive substances. According to SGS efficacy testing report, after using the product for 8 weeks, crow’s feet can be reduced by 36.05% and cheek lines by 20.57%.
With the release of the “Neurocosmetics White Paper,” ae brand, which integrates emotions, senses, and technology, has reached a higher starting point for development. Starting from ae brand’s forward-looking research and innovative products, Neurocosmetics science research and achievements are opening up a new chapter in the field of beauty and skincare in China.
