After the trends of ingredient-based skincare and efficacy-based skincare, the cosmetics industry has now entered the era of technological skincare 3.0. During this period, many cosmetics companies have been promoting “scientific research” and emphasizing the importance of original innovation.
At the recent PCHi (Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients) event, which concluded on March 22nd, 770 global cosmetics ingredient suppliers showcased various new products and technologies. Moreover, several leading companies from the biopharmaceutical field also entered the cosmetics industry. Many industry professionals have exclaimed that “cosmetics ingredients are becoming more diverse, and this is a general trend.”
For cosmetics ingredient suppliers, it is crucial to create unique ingredients that meet market demands and possess distinctive features to break free from the homogeneity. At the PCHi event, Shenzhen Winkey Technology Co., Ltd. (Winkey Technology), an expert in innovative Chinese ingredients such as peptides, launched a significant series of Chinese-themed ingredients called “Originating from China.” Through original innovation, they aim to assist domestic beauty brands in creating differentiated products with oriental characteristics and bring Chinese ingredients to the world.
Focusing on Chinese characteristic resources
Sub-brand “Originating from China” makes a grand appearance
In the cosmetics industry, peptides, also known as “beauty peptides,” are known for their anti-aging, whitening, and spot-lightening effects. Initially, beauty peptides were dominated by European and American companies. However, in recent years, with the rise of synthetic biology in China, Chinese ingredient companies have entered this field, gradually breaking the international monopoly on beauty peptides.
A typical example is Winkey Technology, which entered the field of beauty peptides in 2011 and has now grown into a leading beauty peptide company. According to publicly available information, Dr. Ding Wenfeng, the founder of Winkey Technology, holds a Ph.D. in Medicinal Chemistry from Peking University. After graduating from Peking University, he has been involved in the research and development of innovative peptide drugs. In 2011, he founded Winkey Technology and applied peptide drug research and development techniques innovatively to the development of cosmetic peptides.
Over the past decade, Winkey Technology has become an expert in innovative peptide ingredients in China and has achieved numerous accomplishments. It has been recognized as a national high-tech enterprise, its self-developed beauty peptides have obtained certification from the US PCPC, it has applied for nearly 110 invention patents, and it has established China’s first Skin Peptide Research Institute, among others.
It is worth mentioning that after the implementation of the new ingredient registration regulations, Winkey Technology has actively responded to the policy. According to the registration and filing website for new cosmetic ingredients of the China National Medical Products Administration, as of now, Winkey Technology has filed for registration of 8 new ingredients, of which 6 are globally new structured peptides, making it the company with the highest number of filings.
At the PCHi event, it was noticed that Winkey Technology showcased several globally pioneering new structured peptide ingredients, including Yuluo cyclic peptide, dual anti-aging collagen motor peptide Erasin0003, oligopeptide-215, and Vesuvianite, among others. Additionally, the company’s first biologically synthesized green skin peptide also made its debut at the exhibition.
Of particular interest is that at this PCHi event, Winkey Technology broke the boundaries of existing peptide ingredients and launched a sub-brand called “Originating from China.” This series of ingredients includes squalane sourced from Camellia seeds, a unique Chinese tree species, as well as Chinese characteristic ingredients such as Green Thorn Fruit Oil, Green Thorn Fruit Enzyme Extract, and the Tri-Calmin, which is sourced from areas ranging from 300 to 4000 meters above sea level in China—known as Sanzhi Jingyu.
According to the responsible person from Winkey Technology, “This series is a result of Winkey Technology’s collaboration with multiple universities and research institutions, based on research and exploration of Chinese characteristic resources, combined with Winkey Technology’s research accumulation in the development of active substances, and innovatively developed Chinese characteristic ingredients.”
Planning started five years ago
More than 30 Chinese characteristic ingredients developed and researched
It is understood that as early as five years ago, Winkey Technology began planning to establish a sub-brand. In recent years, news about Winkey Technology’s expansion beyond peptides has been circulating. The high-profile debut of several Chinese characteristic innovative ingredients at PCHi is a showcase of Winkey Technology’s research achievements in non-peptide ingredients.
When asked about the reason for launching the sub-brand, Winkey Technology founder Ding Wenfeng told CHAILEEDO, “Over the years, Winkey Technology’s peptides have gained relatively high recognition in the market. However, now Winkey Technology wants to become a global Chinese ingredient company, which requires further expansion beyond peptides.”
“Currently, Chinese characteristic plant resources are a key area of development in China. In recent years, Winkey Technology has done a lot of work and invested a lot of energy in research, development, and screening of ingredients in the Chinese characteristic resource sector,” he further added.
In Chinese characteristic ingredients, the importance of Chinese plants is undeniable. It is well known that China is one of the countries with the richest plant resources in the world. Chinese characteristic plant ingredients rooted in China and combining cultural value and technological content undoubtedly empower domestic beauty and cosmetic enterprises, giving them a competitive edge in the market.
In terms of innovation, plant-based ingredients have also become a key research focus. According to statistics, as of March 1, 2024, among the 26 new ingredients filed by Chinese cosmetic brands, 9 are plant-based materials, accounting for one-third. Moreover, at the policy level, Article 9 of the “Cosmetic Supervision and Administration Regulations” clearly states, “Encourage and support the research and development of cosmetics using modern science and technology, combined with China’s traditional advantageous projects and characteristic plant resources.”
During the communication with CHAILEEDO, Ding Wenfeng emphasized the importance of ingredient selection multiple times, stating, “In ingredient selection, one needs to have a keen perspective to find materials that have both Chinese characteristics and efficacy.”
The three Chinese characteristic ingredients showcased by Winkey Technology at PCHi demonstrate the company’s innovation and craftsmanship from ingredient selection to product development and design.
Taking Squalane derived from Camellia seeds as an example, currently, Squalane is mainly sourced from natural plants such as olive oil and amaranth seed oil. However, Winkey Technology has taken a different approach by sourcing it from the unique Chinese plant species of the Camellia tree. Through numerous experiments and process adjustments, they have obtained a greener, more stable, and residue-free Squalane through high-pressure solvent-free hydrogenation, which has received international COSMOS certification.
For different sources of Squalane, Winkey Technology also conducted sensory evaluations from the perspectives of spreadability, greasiness, moisturizing sensation, post-dryness moisturization, and post-dryness softness. According to third-party efficacy evaluation reports, the Camellia Squalane not only has a lighter skin feel and good spreadability but also has stronger moisturizing effects, achieving a moisturizing effect without greasiness.
In the development of Prickly Pear ingredients, Winkey Technology conducted extensive research in the preliminary stage and found that this ingredient has excellent skincare benefits. The oil cake derived from Prickly Pear after oil extraction can be transformed into Prickly Pear enzyme extract with instant effects through fermentation processes. It not only has potent effects but also aligns with the concept of natural sustainability, making it worthy of research and investment.
In the development of Tri-Calmin, Winkey Technology selected three ingredients with distinct Chinese characteristics: Gentian, Olive, and Rhodiola. According to third-party efficacy evaluation reports, using 1% of the Tri-Calmin can achieve repairing and quick redness reduction effects within 30 minutes.
It is worth mentioning that at this PCHi event, Winkey Technology’s “Originating from China” series of ingredient maps also made their debut. According to the responsible person from Winkey Technology, as of now, the company has innovatively developed and reserved over 30 Chinese characteristic ingredients from Sichuan, Yunnan, Tibet, Xinjiang, and other regions, which may be launched in the market in the near future.
Empowering with Innovative Technology, Building a Global Chinese Ingredient Brand
With the increasing strength of core technology research and development in Chinese cosmetic ingredient enterprises, going global and deeply cultivating the global market has become a necessary option.
In Winkey Technology’s vision, it is committed to promoting Chinese ingredients worldwide. This includes not only innovative peptides but also the development of Chinese characteristic resource ingredients to establish a comprehensive range of daily chemical ingredients and ultimately become a global Chinese ingredient brand.
Ding Wenfeng explained this vision as follows: “Globalization should not only be about trade but also about the globalization of intellectual property rights. Our patents and intellectual property rights should take the lead. Furthermore, we need to expand our trade channels globally to achieve true globalization. Additionally, Chinese ingredients must be innovative materials created by Chinese people, grown from unique local resources in China. Only these materially innovative ingredients can be called true Chinese ingredients.”
Not only has Winkey Technology made significant investments in scientific research and innovation, but CHAILEEDO also noted that for the developed “Originating from China” series of ingredients, Winkey Technology has produced ingredient traceability videos.
“Producing traceability videos for the ‘Originating from China’ ingredients is not only to let brands using Winkey Technology’s ingredients know about our strict quality requirements, but also to present China’s unique characteristic resources in a new way. We want Chinese characteristic resources to become unique ingredients in the global beauty industry, bringing the beauty of Chinese innovation to the world,” said Ding Wenfeng.
As the saying goes, first-class companies set standards. In October of last year, the group standard T/SHRH 054-2023 “Guidelines for the Establishment of Research and Development Systems for Cosmetics Using Chinese Characteristic Plant Resources,” jointly developed by Winkey Technology, Phytotherapy, Jalan Group, Shangmei Group, Betaine, and more than 20 other top Chinese cosmetic companies, was officially announced on the National Group Standard Information Platform and formally implemented from November 20, 2023. This undoubtedly reaffirms the industry’s recognition of Winkey Technology’s technological achievements in the field of Chinese characteristic plant resources.
Based in China and expanding globally, it is reported that Winkey Technology’s innovative ingredients are not only popular in China but have also been exported to over 20 countries worldwide, including the United States, the United Kingdom, France, and South Korea, providing China’s independently developed innovative ingredients to hundreds of global customers. Among them, Winkey Technology’s earliest launched Squalane derived from Camellia seeds has been sold to many countries worldwide and has been well received and highly praised.
It is worth mentioning that from April 16th to 18th, at the upcoming European Cosmetic Ingredients Exhibition, Winkey Technology will promote two major categories: peptides and Chinese characteristic resource ingredients. “Winkey Technology wants to tell the story of Chinese ingredients to the world through its innovative research methods and promotion strategies,” said Ding Wenfeng.
It is not difficult to see that the launch of the “Originating from China” sub-brand by Winkey Technology is a further demonstration of its innovative research and development capabilities and an expansion of its brand matrix. This will undoubtedly inject more innovative vitality into cosmetic brands. On the road to becoming a global Chinese ingredient brand, Winkey Technology is accelerating its pace.
