La Roche-Posay launched Regenmedic Cream and Clinique introduces the Smart Clinical Repair Cream to join Jiahui Health, and Winona collaborates with the beauty device brand Flossom to create “Device + Skincare”… Recently, major skincare brands have been expanding their boundaries by not only focusing on the efficacy of their products but also extending their reach to different target audiences, channels, and usage scenarios, venturing into the field of medical aesthetics.
So, will the pre- and post-treatment repair of medical aesthetics become a new growth driver for efficacy skincare brands?
Skincare brands target medical aesthetics
With the improvement of living standards and the popularity of the beauty economy, the medical aesthetics market has experienced vigorous growth in recent years. According to statistics from Frost & Sullivan, the Chinese medical aesthetics market reached a scale of 267.8 billion yuan in 2023, and it is expected to reach 318.5 billion yuan by 2024.
While the demand for medical aesthetics is rapidly increasing, the skincare market for pre- and post-treatment repair has not been fully satisfied, creating new opportunities for cosmetic brands. After realizing this trend, many efficacy skincare brands have shifted their focus to the field of medical aesthetics. They are customizing skin management solutions for the “perioperative period,” including pre-treatment, during treatment, and post-treatment, providing comprehensive skincare for the medical aesthetics population.
According to incomplete statistics from CHAILEEDO, up to now, nine efficacy skincare brands have launched new products and established clinics to enter the medical aesthetics market.
Among Chinese brands, Winona started exploring the medical aesthetics scene early on and successively launched two regulated products, Hyaluronic Acid Repair Biomask and Hyaluronic Acid Repair Dressings, mainly targeting post-treatment repair in medical aesthetics. Recently, in response to the skincare needs after using home phototherapy masks, Winona collaborated with the beauty device brand Flossom to create a professional-grade skincare regimen.
Another example is KeyC, the first medical aesthetics brand under the umbrella of Freda. It is reported that KeyC initially built a full-scenario product system around the affordable medical aesthetics perioperative period, followed by the medium-term layout of related Class II and Class III medical devices, and long-term expansion into the biomedical field, fully encompassing the health of medical aesthetics. Currently, KeyC has launched Class II regulated dressings, disposable products, and has developed partnerships with nearly a hundred medical aesthetics hospitals, covering 480 beauty clinics. In addition, skincare technology brand KEY iN and collaborative research brand GIVINIE are also focusing on this sector.
Apart from the launch of new brands in the medical aesthetics market, there are also skincare products that target professional beauty procedures, such as the La Roche-Posay Regenmedic series and the SkinCeuticals A.G.E Cream.
Regarding channel development, CHAILEEDO has noticed that some brands have established medical aesthetic clinics. For example, in February of this year, Dr.Ci:Labo, a performance-driven skincare brand under the Johnson & Johnson group, opened its first medical aesthetic clinic in Beijing’s Chaoyang District. It is understood that this beauty clinic has established a “holistic care” system that combines “daily skincare + deep spa + medical aesthetics” to meet the demands of skincare efficacy and medical aesthetics.
Similarly, SkinCeuticals, a high-end professional skincare brand under L’Oreal, was one of the earliest skincare brands to enter the medical aesthetics field. At the end of 2022, the world’s first SkinCeuticals SKINLAB flagship store was established in Shenzhen. Through collaboration with professional institutions, the store pioneered a new model of “scientific skincare + professional beauty” that provides consumers with a one-stop solution for home care before and after professional beauty treatments.
It is worth mentioning that in terms of channels, the aforementioned brands and products have mostly entered professional medical aesthetics institutions. For example, the new Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Cream has entered Jiahui Health, and the HR Replasty Age Recovery Eye Cream has entered the high-end skin anti-aging institution Laclinic-Montreux in Switzerland.
Currently, in the second half of efficacy skincare, competition is intensifying, and brands urgently need to find new growth points. Therefore, many efficacy skincare brands have turned their attention to the medical aesthetics, satisfying consumers’ beauty needs while driving continuous brand expansion and growth.
Dermatological brands have advantages
As the saying goes, three parts medical aesthetics, seven parts repair. Even though medical aesthetics have fast efficacy, repair and skincare are still crucial factors that directly determine the effectiveness of medical aesthetics. This has led to the combination of “affordable medical aesthetics” and “efficacy skincare”.
According to reports, the concept of “affordable medical aesthetics+efficacy skincare” is essentially equivalent to the concept of “holistic skincare”. Public information shows that “holistic skincare” refers to the comprehensive integration of skincare. This concept was first proposed by Dr. Isaac Starker, a fellow of the American College of Surgeons. According to his explanation of the concept, non-surgical facial rejuvenation treatments typically include procedures such as botulinum toxin, dermal fillers, phototherapy, and other professional medical treatments. By combining them with efficacy skincare products, it is possible to enhance the effects, promote repair, and maintain the efficacy, providing a comprehensive solution for facial rejuvenation.
However, both pre- and post-treatment care in medical aesthetics are highly delicate processes, especially during the vulnerable period of the skin after medical aesthetics procedures. Repairing the skin barrier is often the first step, followed by the addition of anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects through skincare products to prolong the effects of medical aesthetics.
This means that not all efficacy skincare brands can successfully enter the field of medical aesthetics. As shown in the table above, CHAILEEDO has observed a commonality among these brands, which is “dermatology”. They are either founded by dermatologists or have collaborations with doctors for medical research and development.
For example, for the past 26 years, SkinCeuticals has been deeply rooted in the field of dermatology. It has developed over 28 holistic solutions globally and conducted more than 18 comprehensive scientific studies. Each solution has undergone several years of scientific research and repeated verification. Another example is Clinique, which is guided by dermatological science and founded by professional dermatologists. It adheres to allergy testing, and each product undergoes thousands of allergy tests, including repeated patch tests (RIPT), stability tests, sensory tests, etc. Additionally, Wiinona is the leading brand of dermatology-grade skincare products in China. Through collaborations in medical research and development, it has established strong brand power and competitive advantages.
The person in charge of a new and innovative efficacy skincare brand told CHAILEEDO that dermatology-grade efficacy skincare brands mainly emphasize efficacy, which overlaps with some of the effects produced by medical aesthetics. Therefore, they find it relatively easier to enter the field of medical aesthetics.
Li Yan, the person in charge of the skin barrier repair brand Dr. Yu, stated that efficacy skincare brands have a natural connection with doctors due to their genetic background and collaborations in medical research and development. Furthermore, for the medical aesthetics field, channel strength is crucial. Doctors have a significant influence on consumers. From this perspective, brands that have a good pre-existing relationship with doctors and hospitals will find it easier to enter this market.
“In addition, any medical aesthetics procedure first disrupts the original structure of the skin barrier, and then post-treatment skin repair is performed. Currently, many efficacy brands also focus on the post-treatment repair field. This is another natural connection between efficacy skincare brands and the medical aesthetics field,” she further added.
For the pre- and post-treatment repair scenes in medical aesthetics, the products used have strict requirements for safety and efficacy. From this perspective, the entry of efficacy skincare brands into the field of medical aesthetics also serves as an endorsement for their brand, further enhancing their product and brand strength.
“Aesthetic procedures can make the skin sensitive. For photoelectric treatments and other projects, although there may not be obvious damage to the skin surface, issues such as barrier disruption, moisture evaporation, and oxidative stress may occur deep within the skin. Experimental studies have shown that immediate use of professional skincare products from beauty clinics combined with strong repairing properties can help the skin absorb quickly, accelerate post-treatment recovery, and achieve a greater synergistic effect.” A dermatologist once expressed the role of professional efficacy skincare products in professional beauty treatments.
Mandy, the marketing director of STEE HILL, told CHAILEEDO that for brands, endorsing channels related to medical aesthetics (such as beauty clinics and dermatology departments in hospitals), along with professional skin diagnostics and treatment care, or focusing on the combined care effects of medical aesthetics projects, can also gain more recognition from consumers and deepen brand awareness.
“The trend of ‘affordable medical aesthetics’ + ‘efficacy skincare’ is following the trend. ‘Affordable medical aesthetics’ is indeed one of the ways young people can quickly improve their appearance, and its growth rate is rapid,” said Luo Yun, the founder of Xianji brand.
Xu Li, the founder of Suzhou Yumeijian Technology Co., Ltd., stated, “The medical aesthetics field itself is a major trend. Additionally, there is a growing demand for non-surgical facial rejuvenation treatments among consumers. This trend has created opportunities for skincare brands to enter the field of medical aesthetics by providing products that complement and enhance the effects of these treatments.
Mastering the balance between safety and efficacy
Undoubtedly, the pre-operative and post-operative repair market of medical aesthetics is enticing. However, when it comes to skincare products involved in the broader medical aesthetics scene, the emphasis is on both efficacy and safety. Developing post-operative products for medical aesthetics and addressing consumer trust issues is not an easy task.
Mandy pointed out that after medical aesthetics procedures such as aqua facials, botulinum toxin injections, and phototherapy, the skin may have wounds or damage. Improper post-operative care can not only lead to fragile and sensitive skin but also greatly diminish the expected effects of medical aesthetics procedures. At this point, consumers need targeted and gentle products for repair and consolidation of the treatment effects.
Xu Li told CHAILEEDO that the requirements for products vary during different stages of the perioperative period. For example, injection products definitely require medical-grade products. However, during the stable skin phase before the procedure and the recovery period after the procedure, some cosmetic-grade products with clear efficacy and safety evaluations can indeed achieve the desired effects. The problem lies in how to address consumer trust.
Luo Yun stated that post-operative products for medical aesthetics must possess a certain level of professionalism. These products are typically designed specifically for the skin after medical aesthetics treatments, requiring a deep understanding of skin physiology and medical aesthetics procedures. Therefore, brand owners need to invest sufficient resources in research and development to ensure that the products meet consumer demands and provide actual treatment effects. Additionally, post-operative repair products in medical aesthetics place a greater emphasis on safety, ensuring that the products do not exert additional pressure or irritation on the recovering skin.
“In general, the development of post-operative products for medical aesthetics is not an easy task. However, as long as brand owners have a thorough understanding of skin physiology and invest sufficient resources in research and development, it is not difficult to develop products that meet consumer expectations,” he further added.
It is foreseeable that with the continuous popularity of the medical aesthetics industry, there will be more skincare brands focusing on efficacy, entering the medical aesthetics field and upgrading to a “beauty + medical aesthetics” ecosystem.
However, while medical aesthetics is in high demand, the combination of lightweight medical aesthetics and efficacy skincare products also raises certain concerns in China. In recent years, the relationship between cosmetics and medicine has gradually tightened. However, cosmetics are always distinct from drugs and medical devices. Skincare brands must adhere to the bottom line of not using medical terminology and not exaggerating their claims.
CHAILEEDO compiled data showing that between November 2021 and 2022, more than 20 companies were fined by regulatory authorities for using medical terminology to promote their beauty products. The promotional language used included terms such as “anti-inflammatory,” “antibacterial,” and “rapid repair of epidermal damage.”
Overall, for efficacy skincare brands, the combination with lightweight medical aesthetics breaks the stalemate within the efficacy skincare market. However, to succeed in the pre-operative and post-operative repair market of medical aesthetics, both research and development and marketing pose significant challenges for brands.
