Dr. J. Brandt, known as the “Father of Collagen,” once stated, “The aging process of the human body is essentially the process of collagen loss.” There is no doubt that collagen, especially recombinant collagen, is undoubtedly the “star” ingredient in anti-aging skincare. Many beauty companies and brands have launched new products with recombinant collagen as the main component.
Recently, REFINE, a brand under the well-known publicly traded pharmaceutical company Jiangsu Wuzhong Pharmaceutical Group’s wholly-owned subsidiary Aesthetics Wuzhong, officially launched its first series of skincare products called the REFINE 3D Collagen Series, with recombinant human type III collagen as the core ingredient. The entry of pharmaceutical companies into this field also signifies that the recombinant collagen track is moving towards a more professional and scientific direction.
The only global enterprise with both “Collagen Replenishment + Collagen Regeneration” strategies
Public information shows that Jiangsu Wuzhong Pharmaceutical Group was established in 1994 and went public on the A-share market in 1999, becoming the 6th listed company in Suzhou. After nearly 30 years of development, Jiangsu Wuzhong Pharmaceutical Group has established a complete industrial chain and a rich product portfolio in the pharmaceutical sector.
In the pharmaceutical sector, Jiangsu Wuzhong Pharmaceutical Group Pharmaceutical Group Co., Ltd., a wholly-owned subsidiary of Jiangsu Wuzhong Pharmaceutical Group, has the production capabilities for more than ten dosage forms, including infusion solutions, sterile water injections, capsule formulations, granule formulations, and oral liquids. It has over 280 drug production licenses and more than 20 national new drug certificates, allowing the production of over 170 genetic drugs, chemical drugs, and traditional Chinese medicine varieties.
In October 2021, Jiangsu Wuzhong Pharmaceutical Group’s subsidiary, Jiangsu Aesthetics Wuzhong Biotechnology Co., Ltd. (referred to as Aesthetics Wuzhong), was formally established and started to develop the medical aesthetics business.
It is worth noting that as early as 1996, Jiangsu Wuzhong Pharmaceutical Group established a recombinant protein drug production base and became the first domestic expert in recombinant protein drugs. Currently, Jiangsu Wuzhong Pharmaceutical Group has 5 invention patents in the field of recombinant proteins and has received the Suzhou Science and Technology Progress First Prize.
Rong Zhigang, the director of Zhongkai Biopharmaceutical Plant under Jiangsu Wuzhong Pharmaceutical Group, introduced to CHAILEEDO that the company has the most comprehensive technical reserves in the field of recombinant collagen. Different types of recombinant collagen are used as raw materials for different types of end products. He stated, “The development of recombinant collagen is guided by the demand and goals of end products. For example, for implantable medical device products, we have recombinant human type III collagen with a triple helix structure. This protein has a sequence and structure that is 100% identical to natural human type III collagen and is the only commercially produced recombinant triple helix collagen in the industry. The structure of triple helix collagen is stable, and its ability to promote cell adhesion is suitable for the development of medical device products.”
After more than 20 years of development, Jiangsu Wuzhong Pharmaceutical Group has established a leading position in the field of recombinant collagen. Based on the accumulation of the parent company in the field of recombinant collagen, Aesthetics Wuzhong has industrialized recombinant collagen technology and developed collagen fillers with shaping functions. It has further extended its applications to medical aesthetics, plastic surgery, as well as skin, bone, cartilage, cardiovascular, oral, and regenerative tissue repair.
In 2024, Aesthetics Wuzhong launched the recombinant collagen brand REFINE, combining recombinant human type III collagen with patented medical biotechnology. According to the brand, “Rui” refers to the appearance of new plants, symbolizing rebirth and representing the ideal state of delicate and elastic skin with abundant collagen, which is the epitome of ideal skin in its original and best condition. “Fu” is the same as “skin,” and “Ying” refers to the plump and abundant appearance of collagen. Therefore, REFINE represents the brand vision of “reinjecting collagen into the skin, regaining plumpness and fullness, and returning to the skin’s initial and optimal state.”
It is reported that REFINE is derived from the transliteration of the English word “refine,” which means purification and refinement. The choice of the brand name “REFINE” actually signifies Aesthetics Wuzhong’s focus on the core purification technology in collagen production. The importance of purification for recombinant proteins is well known, and REFINE aims to open up new possibilities in beauty by using the best recombinant collagen and continuously providing the skin with collagen, helping consumers recreate the beauty of their appearance.
Recently, REFINE has officially introduced “medical-grade” recombinant human type III collagen into daily skincare and launched its first makeup-grade product line, the REFINE 3D Collagen Renewal Series. Undoubtedly, the launch of this product series also signifies that Jiangsu Wuzhong Pharmaceutical Group, a pharmaceutical company with nearly 30 years of history, has officially entered the beauty industry.
At the same time, Aesthetics Wuzhong has become the only global enterprise simultaneously engaged in Collagen Replenishment and Collagen Regeneration. Collagen Replenishment refers to functional skincare products, while Collagen Regeneration refers to medical aesthetic injection products.
First Zhuang Zi Hao (cosmetics-grade) recombinant collagen protein series new product launched
As we all know, collagen protein starts to diminish in the human body at the age of 20, and by the age of 25, it enters a peak period of loss. As a result, the skin gradually experiences various issues such as dryness, dullness, acne, and fine lines. Therefore, supplementing collagen protein is one of the key ways to maintain youthful, healthy, and beautiful skin.
Scientific research shows that collagen protein is a biological macromolecule and the most abundant and widely distributed functional protein in the human body. It not only plays an important role in the medical field but has also become a favorite in the skincare market. In particular, recombinant collagen protein has rapidly emerged globally in recent years due to its excellent biocompatibility and extensive application prospects. Numerous well-known domestic and international enterprises/brands have entered the field of recombinant collagen protein and launched related products.
According to the brand, the major advantage of the recombinant human type III collagen protein added to the REFINE 3D Collagen Renewal Series is that it contains the coding sequence of human collagen protein genes and has a molecular weight close to that of natural collagen. It has good water solubility and combines the characteristics and advantages of small molecules with high permeability and large molecules with high activity.
It is worth mentioning that in order to address the pain points of transdermal absorption of recombinant collagen protein, the REFINE 3D Collagen Renewal Series products also incorporate cutting-edge R-FC transdermal technology. According to Rong Zhigang, this technology can deliver beauty ingredients directly to the basal layer. Experimental data shows that the absorption rate of products using this technology can be increased threefold. Additionally, this technology also regulates the slow release of active substances, prolongs the effect of effective ingredients, reduces the enzymatic degradation rate of active substances, enhances the stability of active substances, efficiently promotes the transdermal permeability of active substances, and is safe and effective.
It is reported that the REFINE 3D Collagen Renewal Series products include a total of six SKUs, including essence, eye cream, cream, mask, toner, and lotion. To meet the different needs of the skin, in addition to adding recombinant human type III collagen protein, this series of products also scientifically combine ingredients such as Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Myopeptide, XEP-018 active peptide, and various plant extracts to provide multiple benefits such as soothing, moisturizing, brightening, and antioxidant effects.
Taking the REFINE 3D Collagen Renewal Essence as an example, the product utilizes “waterless” black technology, which means that no additional water is added to the product. Instead, the fermentation filtrate of bifid yeast is used as the solvent. According to the efficacy evaluation report of this product, it simultaneously provides moisturizing, brightening, antioxidant, repairing, and strengthening effects, effectively smoothing out wrinkles.
It is worth mentioning that all products in the REFINE 3D Collagen Renewal Series are free from risky ingredients such as pigments, fragrances, and alcohol. They are formulated with a completely green formula and can be used by individuals with sensitive skin.
Aesthetics Wuzhong Boosts High-Quality Development of China’s Cosmetics Industry
Without a doubt, Aesthetics Wuzhong has a natural research and development advantage in crossing over from the pharmaceutical industry to the beauty field. Rong Zhigang stated that they particularly focus on the biological activity of collagen protein and its stability in finished products during the development of cosmetics. “The recombinant collagen protein developed by Aesthetics Wuzhong has significant advantages in promoting cell proliferation and adhesion compared to similar products. The product has high thermal stability and can remain stable at room temperature and in liquid conditions, thus having a longer shelf life and better suiting the usage scenarios of cosmetics.”
Furthermore, Rong Zhigang further explained that skincare products have various types, and different types of products have different requirements for the molecular weight and stability of recombinant collagen protein. Therefore, Aesthetics Wuzhong has also established a diverse library of recombinant collagen protein molecules, and formulators select the recombinant collagen protein raw materials based on the product’s dosage form and efficacy goals. “In addition, the efficacy evaluation of recombinant collagen protein is also a technical challenge. The researchers at Aesthetics Wuzhong have established cellular models, animal models, and zebrafish models to comprehensively evaluate and screen the recombinant collagen protein raw material library.”
Regarding the pain points of recombinant collagen protein being easily degraded and hydrolyzed in an open environment, which affects the stability and efficacy of the products, Rong Zhigang stated, “Thanks to the quality department of Aesthetics Wuzhong coming from a pharmaceutical group, they possess technical reserves in the development and analysis of pharmaceutical quality testing methods, which have played an important role in the cosmetics development process.”
It can be said that with the support of its parent pharmaceutical company and its deep cultivation in the field of recombinant collagen protein, Aesthetics Wuzhong is like a fish in water when applying recombinant collagen protein technology to the skincare field.
It is worth mentioning that in July 2022, Aesthetics Wuzhong established the “Biological and Molecular Intelligent Manufacturing Platform – Aesthetics Wuzhong Recombinant Collagen Protein Joint Laboratory” with Hangzhou International Science and Technology Innovation Center, Zhejiang University. They innovatively use AI-driven IT-BT fusion technology for the development of recombinant type III collagen protein, greatly shortening the development cycle of collagen compared to traditional routes.
Furthermore, on April 28, 2023, Aesthetics Wuzhong, as the deputy leader unit, led the formulation of the “Requirements for the Quality of Recombinant Collagen Protein Raw Materials and Evaluation Methods for Efficacy” Group Standard 23 (No.: T/ZGKSL005-2023), which was officially released. This standard was proposed and consolidated by the China Anti-Aging Promotion Association, with the participation of 31 companies in drafting. It is the first group standard in the cosmetics application field in China regarding the quality requirements and efficacy evaluation methods of recombinant collagen protein raw materials. It specifies the terminology and definitions, quality requirements, testing methods, efficacy evaluation, and inspection rules for recombinant collagen protein. This also demonstrates that Aesthetics Wuzhong is at the forefront of the industry in the research and application of recombinant collagen protein.
Developing cosmetics with a pharmaceutical mindset of professionalism, rigor, and science, the REFINE brand with a pharmaceutical background inherently carries the “genes” of pursuing product safety, efficacy, and scientific rigor. This cosmetics development strategy based on pharmaceutical research not only enhances product quality but also promotes technological progress and scientific development in the entire industry, driving the Chinese cosmetics market towards a healthier, more scientific, and high-quality future.
