Recently, in a growing health concern, the French Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health & Safety (ANSES) is urging consumers and professionals to halt the use of hair styling products containing glyoxylic acid, following reports of acute kidney failure associated with its use. Glyoxylic acid is commonly found in hair straightening and curling products, notably in “Brazilian straightening” treatments. Since the beginning of the year, ANSES has documented four cases of acute kidney failure linked to these products.
Despite the alarming reports, glyoxylic acid remains unregulated within the European Union and the UK, with no immediate restrictions in place. However, ANSES is preparing a proposal aimed at revising European regulatory standards to better manage the ingredient’s usage. According to agency spokesperson Rzewucka, the cosmetic industry should brace for potential repercussions, including the possibility of a complete EU-wide ban.
In the interim, both the Directorate-General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control (DGCCRF) and the Directorate-General for Health (DGS) are advising against the use of glyoxylic acid-containing products. A preliminary evaluation by these bodies suggests that France may seek a new mandate for a toxicological safety assessment from the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). If the SCCS confirms the nephrotoxic properties of glyoxylic acid, this could lead to strict concentration restrictions or its inclusion in the ban list under EU regulation 1223/2009.
Experts caution that symptoms of kidney failure can manifest within hours of exposure, presenting as abdominal or lower back pain, nausea, and vomiting. Fortunately, all reported cases of intoxication have resulted in recovery following appropriate treatment. As the situation unfolds, stakeholders are encouraged to monitor developments regarding the SCCS assessment and adhere to established timelines for public input and data submissions related to the safety of glyoxylic acid.
