Recently, CHAILEEDO obtained information from the official website of the National Medical Products Administration that a raw material called “Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester” has completed the filing process. The filing company is Shandong Jitai Biotech Technology Co., Ltd. (referred to as JiTai Biotech), which is a well-known Chinese manufacturer of cosmetic peptide raw materials and has been recommended by Loren Pickart, the father of Glycyl-L-Histidyl-L-Lysine and a renowned scientist.
JiTai Biotech breaks the application gap in China, water-soluble and in line with the trend of pure beauty
Recently, Li Lun, the director and deputy general manager of JiTai Biotech, gave an exclusive interview to CHAILEEDO, revealing the mysterious nature of this new raw material to the public for the first time. He said, “This raw material not only has soothing and antioxidant effects, but its excellent water solubility fills the gap in the Chinese market for water-soluble soothing agents. It demonstrates enormous potential in the field of sensitive skin care.” In the highly competitive market for sensitive skin, the successful filing of Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester may have a significant impact on the market for sensitive skin ingredients.
Currently, the demand from consumers with sensitive skin is becoming increasingly refined, resulting in high market attention for related ingredients and technologies. Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester undoubtedly represents a major move by Chinese raw material companies targeting the sensitive skin market.
In 1979, scholars at Kyoto University in Japan first isolated Dipeptide-9 from bovine brains and discovered that injecting it into the brains of mice would produce “β-endorphin,” which inhibits brain pain and has a pain-relieving effect similar to morphine. This unexpected finding also provided the cosmetics industry with a switch to control TRPV-1, making it less “excitable.” The TRPV family, including the capsaicin receptor TRPV-1, is the “receptor” for sensitive skin.
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is an advanced innovation based on Dipeptide-9. JiTai Biotech stated to CHAILEEDO, “Our research and development team modified Dipeptide-9 as the core structure, with the N-terminal modified to an ‘Acetyl group,’ which increases its bioavailability. It reduces skin hypersensitivity, alleviates skin redness, burning, and other sensitive discomforts, making it particularly suitable for individuals with sensitive skin.”
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a neuro-peptide that stimulates the production and release of endorphins in the skin’s nerve endings, reducing pain and heat sensations, and providing comfort and relaxation to the skin. It also controls plasma extravasation and microvascular dilation by inhibiting CGRP and SP mediators, preventing the generation of redness and swelling. Through dual regulation of neurotransmitters involved in stimulating muscle activity, it relaxes muscles, prevents the appearance of initial wrinkles, improves the depth and length of fine lines, and smoothens dynamic wrinkles, static wrinkles, and fine lines.
Currently, the demand for sensitive skin in the Chinese market is growing rapidly. According to Ai Media Consulting’s “White Paper on Chinese Women’s Sensitive Skin,” the overall market volume for sensitive skin is expected to exceed 30 billion yuan by 2024. Beauty peptides are also experiencing rapid development due to their high activity and clear target points. Data shows that the total scale of peptide-containing cosmetics in the Chinese market reached 12.76 billion yuan last year. Therefore, the completion of the filing for Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester at this time can be described as “perfect timing.”
“We have long recognized the broad application prospects of Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester. With the current strong demand in the sensitive skin market and the opening of new raw material filings, JiTai Biotech, with its strong technical strength and research and development experience, has successfully completed the filing process.” Li Lun explained.
The completion of the filing for this new raw material signifies that Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester has broken the application gap in the Chinese market and heralds another “game-changing” development in the sensitive skin ingredient market.
JiTai Biotech fills the gap of water-soluble soothing agents, simultaneously focusing on soothing and antioxidative effects.
Currently, driven by strong market demand, there is increasing attention on innovative raw materials for sensitive skin. Brand owners and raw material suppliers are entering the market, aiming to differentiate themselves through raw material innovation and develop unique labels and research and development strategies to gain an advantage in the competitive sensitive skin market.
So, compared to the current sensitive skin raw materials on the market, what are the technological breakthroughs and highlights of Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester? And what new stories can it bring to the current sensitive skin market? To answer these questions, CHAILEEDO conducted an in-depth investigation.
When it comes to Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, it’s necessary to mention Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester whale wax ester, which has a similar name and a similar structure. As a raw material included in the “Catalog of Cosmetics Raw Materials Used in China” in 2021, it is widely used in the Chinese sensitive skin market. However, due to its “poor solubility in water,” it requires the addition of solubilizers with Polyethylene glycol structure or polyols to aid in solubility.
However, as research has deepened, the scientific community has found that Polyethylene glycol may pose certain sensitization risks. A recent article on the official WeChat account of the Department of Allergy at Huashan Hospital, affiliated with Fudan University, titled “Hidden Allergen – Polyethylene Glycol,” shows that Polyethylene glycol may cause systemic allergic reactions. During the development process of sensitive skin formulations, the use of solubilizers such as Polyethylene glycol may cause discomfort such as stinging and itching.
To address the above application challenges, JiTai Biotech has overcome the difficulties through technological breakthroughs and the use of a unique liquid-phase synthesis production process, allowing Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester to truly dissolve in water and fundamentally solve the development challenges brought by solubilizers.
It is reported that liquid-phase synthesis has many advantages, such as not requiring preparation of high-performance liquid chromatography purification, good synthesis cost control, environmentally friendly and green production, no need for resins and large amounts of solvents as mobile phases, high purity crystallization, moisture resistance, ease of storage, and the ability for large-scale batch production.
Dr. Yu Gengli, the founder of JiTai Biotech, also mentioned in an interview with CHAILEEDO, “For peptides with multiple amino acids, solid-phase synthesis methods are suitable. For short peptides like cosmetic peptides, liquid-phase synthesis has more advantages but requires a strong R&D team and continuous technological innovation.”
While overcoming application challenges, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester still maintains excellent soothing and antioxidative effects. Specifically, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester achieves its anti-inflammatory and soothing effects by regulating key regulatory factors TNF-α, IL-6, IL-1β, and PGE2 in skin inflammation.
Experimental results show that 0.02%-0.08% Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester has a significant inhibitory effect on inflammatory factors TNF-α and IL-6. At a concentration of 0.02%, the inhibition rate on IL-6 reaches 52%, and at a concentration of 0.08%, the inhibition rate on TNF-α reaches 79%.
In addition, through arm-inner, single-blind, randomized human testing, after inducing skin damage to erythema, different concentrations of Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester cream were applied, and the hemoglobin content was tested at 1 hour (T1) and 2 hours (T2). The results showed that after applying the cream with 0.1% concentration, the hemoglobin content decreased by 39.43% and 39.44%, and after applying the cream with 1% concentration, the hemoglobin content decreased by 39.47% and 40.12%.
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is also effective in removing free radicals and reducing cellular oxidative damage. Based on ROS content determination using the UVA-HSF cell model and DPPH free radical scavenging capacity test, cells treated with 0.08% Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester showed lower ROS levels than the model group, confirming its ability to remove ROS with a clearance rate of 7%. Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester exhibited a clearance rate for DPPH free radicals ranging from 13.22% to 32.25% within the concentration range of 0.02% to 1%, with the highest clearance rate reaching 32.25%.
CHAILEEDO has noticed that currently, the development of sensitive skin products mainly focuses on classic ingredientsSorry, but I don’t have any information on JiTai Biotech or Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester beyond my knowledge cutoff in September 2021. It’s possible that these developments have occurred after that time, and I recommend conducting a search to find the latest information on these topics.
Participating in the drafting of multiple peptide standards, JiTai Biotech is making efforts in synthetic biology.
In recent years, the Chinese beauty peptide industry has been developing rapidly, and JiTai Biotech has taken a unique path in peptide practice, leading the industry in various raw materials such as Glycyl-L-Histidyl-L-Lysine and Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester.
CHAILEEDO noted that as a leading beauty peptide company in China, in January of this year, JiTai Biotech led the drafting and formulation of the group standard “Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester” (T/CAFFCI 72—2024), which was officially released by the China Fragrance Flavor and Cosmetic Industry Association. In June, the industry standards for TRIPEPTIDE-1 and Copper Tripeptide-1, led by JiTai Biotech, were officially approved and launched by the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology. In addition, JiTai Biotech also organized the drafting of China’s first group standard for the raw material Glycyl-L-Histidyl-L-Lysine for cosmetics, solidifying its leading position in the beauty peptide field.
Behind these group standards, JiTai Biotech demonstrates its leading industry position, supported by strong hardware and software.
In terms of research and development, with over ten years of deep cultivation and accumulation in the beauty peptide field, JiTai Biotech has taken the lead in establishing three major synthetic methods: “synthetic biology, chemical synthesis, and enzymatic synthesis,” and has formed a strong research and development team for this purpose.
In the field of chemical synthesis projects, with Dr. Yu Gengli, Chairman and Chief Scientist of JiTai Biotech, as the core, Dr. Chongzhao Ran, Associate Professor at Harvard Medical School, and Senior Researcher Yuxin Liu from Tufts University are the project leaders. Dr. Hang Ma, Assistant Professor at the University of Rhode Island, serves as a collaborator for plant chemistry projects, and Cui Xiangwei, founder of the Peptide Synthesis Biology Laboratory and Deputy Director of the Office of the College of Life Science and Engineering at Jining University, serves as the project leader for synthetic biology.
By expanding from core liquid-phase synthesis technology to solid-phase synthesis technology and establishing synthetic biology methods, JiTai Biotech continuously expands the boundaries of research and development and creates technological barriers. Recently, JiTai Biotech has initiated interdisciplinary collaborations in synthetic biology and plant chemistry fields, such as modifying or grafting hyaluronic acid and combining peptides with active ingredients from medicinal plants to achieve synergistic effects.
In terms of hardware, the new factory recently put into use by JiTai Biotech marks its formal entry into the large-scale production stage of peptide raw materials.
From a business layout perspective, JiTai Biotech’s main products are divided into two categories: high-purity peptide powder and high-quality peptide solution, covering a wide range of popular efficacy areas such as wrinkle reduction, immediate wrinkle elimination, skin whitening, soothing and anti-allergy, hair growth, eye bag elimination, oil control, and balance, totaling over a hundred products.
In addition to its diverse product line, JiTai Biotech has also formed various collaboration models, including participating in the formulation of industry standards and group standards with other companies, application patent cooperation including new compound patents, and the development and filing of new raw materials.
CHAILEEDO noted that in the “List of Cosmetics Raw Materials Used (2021 Edition)” published in 2021, there were 78 beauty peptides listed, and 15 peptide raw materials have been registered since 2021. In the international directory of cosmetic raw material standards, there are 1,219 peptide-related raw materials.
The discrepancy in applications indicates tremendous development space. JiTai Biotech’s registration of new raw materials and its global achievements in Glycyl-L-Histidyl-L-Lysine already reflect the leading position of Chinese beauty peptide companies in improving peptide processes and solving application issues. This will undoubtedly contribute to the further prosperity of the Chinese beauty peptide industry and its global market expansion.
