The world’s largest cosmetics company, Japan’s largest cosmetics group, China’s leading skincare stock, South Korea’s largest daily consumer goods company, Hong Kong-listed China’s top cosmetics stock, China’s largest local cosmetics OEM factory… Today, the top cosmetics groups from China, Japan, South Korea, and Europe and America gathered at the dazzling Shanghai Global Port Twin Towers to discuss the new trends in technology against aging and envision the industry’s prospects and future.
No skincare without efficacy, no anti-aging without technology. On October 22nd, under the theme of “Technology Against Aging,” the 2024 (10th) China Cosmetics Trend Conference, hosted by CHAILEEDO and jointly supported by NBC, Trautec, Winkey, and COSMAX, was held in Shanghai!
The conference was packed, with over 500 people gathered on-site and more than 6,000 people watching online, witnessing the concerted efforts of the upstream and downstream of the beauty industry to seek new industry opportunities together.
CHAILEEDO Co-founder, Cai Zhaoyang:
“Technology Anti-Aging is the largest market segment in terms of market share.”
This year marks the 10th year of CHAILEEDO. Over the past decade, CHAILEEDO has focused solely on one thing: reporting on the industry through content. We has consecutively been the top-read media in the cosmetics industry for six years.
The Chinese cosmetics industry has transitioned from basic skincare to technological skincare, where technology is 1, and marketing is the countless zeros that follow. From January to September this year, the market size of the cosmetics industry in China was 645.62 billion yuan, with a slight increase of 1.1% year-on-year. China has now become the world’s largest cosmetics market.
From January to August this year, the market size for anti-aging efficacy was 268.69 billion yuan, with a market share of 38.2%, showing a 30.1% year-on-year growth. It is evident that technology against aging has become the largest market segment with the fastest growth rate.
Chairman of the China Association of Fragrance Flavor and Cosmetic Industries (CAFFCI) and Medical Doctor, Yan Jiangying:
“New quality productivity is the breakthrough method for Chinese cosmetics enterprises.”
It is undeniable that the cosmetics market growth has shown signs of slowing down and even declining at times. From January to September 2024, the total retail sales of cosmetics decreased by -1.0% year-on-year, with a 4.5% month-on-month decline in September. This reflects that the Chinese cosmetics market is transitioning from rapid growth to a period of stability or even fluctuations, marking a phase of industry transformation and adjustment.
However, China’s economy has withstood the pressure and continues to progress towards high-quality development on the basis of stability. Therefore, I believe that the cosmetics industry in China is still experiencing continuous growth during this adjustment period, with vast market space and potential.
In September 2023, President Xi Jinping proposed the concept of new quality productivity during his inspection in Heilongjiang. This is also the solution to our industry’s challenges: technological innovation can drive new industries, new models, and new momentum, serving as a core element in developing new quality productivity.
So, how should we understand technological innovation? We can see that in 2023, national R&D expenditure increased by 8.4% compared to the previous year, far exceeding the GDP growth rate, indicating the central government’s and State Council’s emphasis on technological innovation.
In the cosmetics industry, which combines natural and social sciences in a multidisciplinary field, technological innovation encompasses not only hard technology but also soft technology. Therefore, the focus of technological innovation requires Chinese cosmetics enterprises to emphasize scientific supervision, material innovation, brand innovation, communication innovation, and sustainable development.
As Charlie Munger once said, “In macro trends, one must be responsible; in micro-level actions, one must take steps.” The cosmetics industry still holds immense potential, and we must dispel uncertainties with a more optimistic and forward-looking mindset, believing that the Chinese economy will continue to develop positively in the long term.
Founder & CEO of CHICMAX, LYU Yixiong:
“Focus is CHICMAX’s primary strategy.”
Chinese enterprises experience phases of leading and lagging. The key lies in contemplating how businesses can operate continuously and navigate through cycles.
It took me over twenty years to realize this – to achieve excellence, one must dedicate a lifetime to a single pursuit. Therefore, “Focus is CHICMAX’s primary strategy.” The first rule in the CHICMAX employee handbook states that the CEO of CHICMAX must never operate outside the cosmetics industry.
Why does CHICMAX solely focus on cosmetics? I believe that the cosmetics industry is boundless, and focus, through time’s accumulation, can help companies navigate through cycles. The cosmetics industry’s characteristics of multiple brands, categories, and countries allow businesses the time to expand into more categories, brands, and markets globally, a task that could span generations. Hence, the cosmetics business can be passed down from one generation to the next, and the future successors of CHICMAX can only engage in cosmetics.
Regarding how to focus specifically, I believe less is more, and slow is fast. Successful companies worldwide share a common trait – a focus on their core business. Therefore, in the cosmetics industry, CHICMAX aims to sustain growth by focusing on a single track and branching out with multiple brands, using the success of these brands to support the company’s sustainable growth.
Under the umbrella of focus, in the next decade, our main focus will be on mass skincare, hair care, maternal and baby products, dermatological cosmetics, makeup, high-end skincare + devices, these six major sectors.
CHICMAX is a company with clear division of labor, operating like an army, and driving sectors forward. In the future, as the CEO of CHICMAX, I will continue to lead a strong team to explore CHICMAX’s long-term path to sustainable development.
If the business in the Chinese region continues to thrive next year, maintaining a high growth trajectory, and the talent pool for all brands in the Chinese region is well-established, I will lead the team to enter the Southeast Asian market, empowering CHICMAX’s sustained growth in the future.
Despite the current industry winter, it is also the best time to build a brand. As the market matures, it tests comprehensive skills rather than luck. In the professional era, it is always the non-professionals who get eliminated.
Vice President of Botanee Group (BTN), Wang Feifei:
“BTN introduces the concept of comprehensive anti-aging for the first time.”
Dr. Guo Zhenyu, founder of BTN, once said, “There is currently no leading domestic high-end anti-aging product brand in the Chinese market. We choose to do what is difficult yet right.” Therefore, in 2023, we launched AOXMED, introducing the concept of comprehensive anti-aging for the first time.
The “comprehensive anti-aging concept” was proposed by our Chief Scientist and has gained consensus in the dermatological community. It serves as a guiding principle for subsequent product development, addressing various issues in the epidermis, dermis, and neural signaling pathways of aging skin. Additionally, under the leadership of the China Anti-Aging Promotion Association, BTN participated in the release of the “Evaluation Standard for Human Skin Aging,” which, based on the actual conditions of the Chinese population, summarizes the main clinical manifestations of skin aging from multiple perspectives and dimensions.
The release of this “standard” acts as a benchmark, providing the industry with referenceable evaluation criteria. Concurrently, BTN published a comprehensive review SCI paper that organized global basic research results on anti-aging for various skin layers.
Regarding the design of the “patented compound MLYAAT-1002®,” based on predictions from a raw material target database, 7 core ingredients were selected from over 200 raw materials. Utilizing network pharmacology research, the synergistic regulatory effects of these 7 components on 24 skin aging pathways were elucidated. Following comprehensive in vitro efficacy testing for epidermal anti-aging, dermal anti-aging, and neural signal regulation, various transdermal performance research methods such as Franz diffusion cells, 3D full-skin models, Raman spectroscopy were employed to ensure that the components of MLYAAT-1002® meet the skin penetration requirements for comprehensive anti-aging.
Building upon the application of MLYAAT-1002®, AOXMED follows the guidance outlined in the dermatological expert consensus regarding the “combination of anti-aging skincare products with facial rejuvenation technologies.” Addressing the diverse needs of both online and offline beauty seekers, especially in the pre-management, joint project, and home maintenance stages of medical aesthetics, various “full-process” skincare application scenarios were developed. A total of 6 randomized controlled clinical studies and over 60 human clinical observations were conducted, guided by evidence-based medicine principles, leading to the development of a series of “AOXMED comprehensive anti-aging products” that offer both safety and efficacy guarantees.
Renowned dermatologist specializing in beauty and cosmetics, Head of the Dermatology Department at a top-tier hospital, Lai Wei:
“Anti-aging is the primary demand, peptides are a popular scientific anti-aging ingredient.”
A certain app conducted a survey where 100 skincare professionals showed slightly different perceptions of skin anti-aging compared to the general public. From the cases they handled, the most urgent skin aging issues patients sought to improve included pigmentation, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity.
Furthermore, another survey initiated by CHAILEEDO revealed insights from studying over 700 consumers, indicating that on average, each consumer has 4.8 skincare efficacy demands. Among all the efficacy demands, approximately 68.58% of consumers have a need for anti-aging skincare. This indicates that anti-aging has become the primary demand, with an increasing awareness of anti-aging among consumers before the age of 24, showing a significant rise in awareness of anti-premature aging.
As a dermatologist, I would like to emphasize the highly popular peptide ingredients in recent years. Due to the variety of peptides available, they can act on different levels of the skin, activating/inhibiting various molecular targets to provide comprehensive anti-aging effects. Consequently, peptides have been frequently used in anti-aging skincare products in recent years.
In 2024, the successful filing of the new ingredient Hexapeptide-9 as the “new generation Chinese ingredient” marks the beginning of an era of peptide innovation. Currently, China has developed over ten types of peptide-based new ingredients, with Hexapeptide-9 being a domestically researched cyclic peptide component with patented properties. This ingredient has sufficient support in terms of safety and efficacy and is expected to see increasing use in cosmetics in the future. We anticipate that more companies will innovate and surpass in the field of peptide ingredients.
Head of Shiseido China Innovation Center, HIDEFUMI ARAKI:
“Asian skin ages faster, requiring targeted solutions.”
As a century-old beauty company, Shiseido has conducted skin research globally for many years to understand the characteristics of skin aging in Asians, thereby creating targeted anti-aging products.
Research has revealed that skin concerns for women of different ages in the East are as follows: Women in their 20s face issues like dark circles, blackheads, and oiliness; Women in their 30s deal with concerns such as enlarged pores, dryness, pigmentation, and freckles; Women in their 40s contend with pigmentation, freckles, crow’s feet, and under-eye bags. Additionally, compared to Caucasian women, Asian women tend to experience more pigmentation issues around the eyes as they age. As Asian women grow older, their skin tends to sag at a faster rate and to a greater extent, especially around the tear troughs and nasolabial folds.
Through these studies, Shiseido has identified a three-pronged approach towards addressing Asian skin aging concerns: targeting fine lines, firmness, and radiance. In response to these needs, in April of this year, Shiseido introduced the “Shiseido Eudermic Revitalizing Anti-Wrinkle Cream” containing pure retinol.
Furthermore, Shiseido has been delving into the internal causes of skin laxity. In recent years, they have discovered changes related to aging such as the disappearance of skin anchoring structures, dermal void formation, and weakening of the dermal network structure. Research indicates that a decrease in piloerector support function can lead to skin laxity. Based on this, Shiseido launched a new product in August this year, the “ELIXIR Youful Radiance Lifting Firming Cream,” aimed at combating sagging issues and has received wide acclaim.
Founder of Winkey Technology, Wenfeng Ding:
“Internationally, China has a deeper understanding and wider application of peptides.”
Peptides provide us with significant opportunities, enabling China to catch up and even overtake others in cosmetic technology innovation. Peptides can serve as a great focal point for Chinese-style innovation in the cosmetics industry. I will mainly discuss the anti-aging aspects of peptides under Chinese-style innovation from the following three perspectives:
- Trends in Chinese raw materials. As mentioned earlier, we should not roll downwards – downward rolling leads to homogenization, where everyone produces the same thing, resulting in price competition. On the other hand, upward rolling occurs when everyone creates unique products, fostering innovation. Innovation is a collective effort, as seen in the data on new raw materials filed with the National Medical Products Administration from 2021 to 2024. Apart from raw material developers, brands are also continuously innovating their materials.
- Chinese innovation in thinking and layout. What is “Chinese innovative peptides”? I believe there are two key points: Chinese technological innovation, including innovations in scientific ingredients and technologies, with peptides being a crucial component of scientific ingredient innovation.
Furthermore, China possesses rich indigenous plant resources that have not been adequately showcased. In terms of research depth, breadth, and data richness, it has yet to meet globally recognized standards. Therefore, I believe all plant materials can be redeveloped using better processes, higher quality, and richer data. We have launched a sub-brand called “Originating from China” to redevelop plant resources unique to China. Currently, we have introduced multiple distinctive ingredients to the market and have over 30 ongoing projects in this area.
- Innovative anti-aging peptides. Winkey has registered eight peptide raw materials, accounting for 50% of the country’s new peptide materials, with six being structurally innovative. For instance, Coffeeoyl Hexapeptide-9 is already used in major international brand products. The innovation and development of peptides primarily focus on market demand and skin physiology, incorporating targeted receptors and cutting-edge technology for innovation.
Additionally, we have introduced the concept of drug development to create innovative peptides. For example, Erasin0003, developed targeting the TGF-β collagen pathway, promotes the expression of 5 types of collagen and demonstrates excellent immediate and long-term anti-aging effects clinically. These types of materials, known in the pharmaceutical field as Me-Better, outperform existing materials. Coffeeoyl Hexapeptide-9 is an innovative peptide developed using Peptide Drug Conjugation (PDC) technology, achieving synergistic effects far greater than the sum of its parts. Furthermore, we have innovative peptides derived from natural sources, such as Tripeptide-105 and Oligopeptide-215. These materials represent innovative peptides for immune anti-aging and reparative anti-aging purposes respectively.
Chairman of Trautec, Qian Song:
“The nucleic acid tetrahedron can help microRNA achieve true genetic anti-aging.”
When Trautec was established, it laid out its strategy in the two major areas of recombining collagen and nucleic acids. In the field of protein anti-aging, we launched anti-aging raw materials centered around recombined collagen, while in the field of nucleic acid anti-aging, we released the blueprint of the nucleic acid tetrahedron raw material, marking the establishment of Trautec’s comprehensive anti-aging system.
This report is mainly divided into two parts: an overview of the synthetic biology industry and the biological synthesis and innovation of the nucleic acid tetrahedron:
Synthetic biology is rapidly evolving towards practicality and industrialization. It will play a unique role in fields such as “dual-carbon,” biomaterials, bioinformatics, and artificial intelligence, making it a battleground for global technological development.
From the data, the global synthetic biology industry has experienced rapid growth over the past five years. The market size has increased from $5.3 billion in 2018 to over $17 billion in 2023, with an average annual growth rate of 27%. It is projected that by 2028, the global synthetic biology market will grow to nearly $50 billion.
In theory, over 60% of the matter on Earth can be obtained through bio-manufacturing supported by synthetic biology technology. Bio-manufacturing supported by synthetic biology represents the future direction of development, with the ability to reshape the way the Earth’s resources are utilized.
The nucleic acid tetrahedron can help microRNA achieve true genetic anti-aging. The essence of human anti-aging lies in cellular anti-aging. Cells are composed of numerous biomolecules and small molecules such as nucleic acids, proteins, lipids, and carbohydrates, with only nucleic acids and proteins directly related to genetic information. Nucleic acids (DNA and RNA) and proteins are at the core of life’s rules, being the most basic and important building blocks of organisms. Therefore, the underlying logic of all anti-aging is nucleic acid anti-aging and protein anti-aging.
Regarding nucleic acid biological synthesis and innovation, previously, chemical synthesis resulted in high production costs, long cycles, low yields, and low production efficiency. By using synthetic biology to create the nucleic acid tetrahedron, we have solved the difficulties brought by chemical synthesis, such as sequence design challenges and DNA extraction challenges. The nucleic acid tetrahedron has excellent transdermal absorption capabilities, can efficiently and freely pass through cell research membranes, and possesses good biocompatibility, biological safety, low immunogenicity, easy editability, nucleic enzyme resistance, and in vivo stability.
In terms of function, the nucleic acid tetrahedron can act as a factor regulating the biological behaviors of various cells. It has clear positive effects in promoting cell proliferation, maintaining stem cell phenotypes, anti-cell senescence, regulating inflammation, regulating autophagy behavior, and more. It can efficiently deliver microRNA into cells, achieving transcriptional regulation of target genes, and has a wide range of applications in the cosmetics field.
LG Household & Health Care Beauty General Manager Yang Ying:
“LG’s business in the Chinese market has grown by 7.7%, leading the global market recovery.”
As South Korea’s largest daily consumer goods company, LG Household & Health Care established a comprehensive enterprise research institute back in 1979, marking the beginning of its history in beauty research.
Based on consumer insights, we have spent six years building a database of the skin genes of 57,000 Asian women. This stands as one of the largest skin databases in Asia, filling the genetic gap in Asian genetics.
Through whole-genome association studies, we have identified 23 genomic markers related to Asian skin tones, among which 11 have never been reported before.
Simultaneously, we have shifted our focus to the star ingredient NAD+ (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide). After a decade of research, we have overcome the challenges of incorporating NAD+ into cosmetics. Experimental evidence shows that the NAD Power 24 (water, 1,2-hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide, hydrogenated lecithin, sorbitan oleate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, cholesterol) can help repair barriers and hydrate, soothe, and firm the skin.
Through these applications, in the years 2023-2024, our group’s major product upgrades have all had their global debut in the Chinese market, such as THE WHOO/Radiant Rejuvenating Luminant Essence, THE WHOO/Secret Court Rejuvenating Firming Essence, OHUI/Ultimate Rejuvenating Water Emulsion, and more.
The reason for our focus on the Chinese market is evident in the financial reports for the first half of this year (January to June), showing a 7.7% growth in performance for LG Household & Health Care in the Chinese market. We believe that indeed, the Chinese market is leading the global market recovery.
NBC Vice President Qiu Xiaofeng:
“Supply Chain Empowers Beauty Brands in Technological Anti-Aging”
As an ODM enterprise, NBC primarily assists beauty brands in technological anti-aging through three main aspects.
- Raw Material Selection: Faced with a vast raw material repository, NBC has established a specialized system for screening, introducing, and managing raw materials with strict standards. For instance, if a brand aims to promote its technological aspect, we incorporate peptide combinations into the formulation to meet the brand’s requirements.
- Formulation Innovation: In recent years, NBC has been promoting two major technologies: “Nano Micro-Emulsion Encapsulation” and “Electrospun Fiber Membrane,” both of which protect actives and enhance penetration. For example, the nano instant dissolving mask utilizing electrospinning technology can penetrate deep into the skin. Additionally, the NBC Dual-Chamber Fresh Radiance series mask, with a “membrane-liquid separation” design, uses new formulations and packaging to meet a wider range of consumer needs.
- Efficacy Verification: We have established an in-house evaluation center and closely collaborate with third-party organizations to independently conduct cell experiments, protein tests, and potentially develop skin chip and other verification technologies in the future.
NBC’s success as China’s largest ODM enterprise is not solely due to technology and efficiency; our system has undergone scrutiny from professional institutions and numerous brand validations over the past 20 years. Moreover, we place a strong emphasis on the concept of sustainability, integrating sustainability principles throughout all processes from raw materials to technology, formulation, packaging, production, and more. This year, we have also participated in formulating the industry’s first ESG group standard.
NBC’s motto is “Leading with Technology, Efficiency is King.” Through rapid iterations of raw material innovation and formulations, we aim to create green and efficient technological anti-aging beauty products.
OLAY Greater China Brand Communications and PR General Manager Li Jing:
“The Technological Power and Corporate Responsibility in the Anti-Aging Era”
Since 1975, OLAY has been conducting research on peptides, becoming the first brand to successfully transition peptides from pharmaceuticals to the skincare sector.
In 2003, OLAY launched its first peptide cream, marking a significant breakthrough in the anti-aging skincare field. Over the past 20 years, OLAY has continuously upgraded its products through innovative technology, adhering to five key principles of effective skincare: skin basic science, clear mechanisms, effective penetration, clinical evidence, and product experience, with effective penetration being particularly crucial.
This year, OLAY collaborated with aerospace engineering experts from Nanyang Technological University, utilizing supercomputer computational power to simulate the penetration effects of peptides, achieving a milestone breakthrough in peptide research. The study revealed that compared to cyclohexapeptide, linear pentapeptide, and cyclopentapeptide, OLAY Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 demonstrated significant advantages in the speed and depth of transdermal penetration.
OLAY has introduced the “Fourth Generation Super Red Bottle” this year, incorporating the latest research achievements. Its most groundbreaking feature is “surpassing collagen, simultaneously replenishing three major anti-aging proteins,” providing Chinese women with a comprehensive anti-aging solution that truly meets their needs.
As a brand with over 70 years of beauty history, OLAY believes that besides research and innovation, a company’s responsibility also includes inspiring and empowering the next generation of scientific research talents. OLAY particularly focuses on the power of women in science. In 2021, OLAY launched the “Science Has Her” program for young female scientists, aiming to encourage female university students with scientific dreams to choose research as their ideal career. By 2030, the program aims to positively influence over 8 million women in the field of science.
OLAY, in collaboration with the China Women’s Development Foundation, initiated the “Girls Love Science” special program in universities, currently covering nine top universities nationwide and encompassing 13 key research project teams, including skincare biotechnology, new energy, smart health and medicine, and skin science. The cumulative investment time in research projects has exceeded 910 hours.
By impacting lives with life, OLAY aspires for the brand to not only be a hall of scientific skincare but also a place where young scientific talents can embark on their dreams, fostering an endless source of innovation in the industry.
COSMAX Skin Microecology Research Head Chen Yao:
“The Microecology Anti-Aging Ingredient Market Holds Great Potential”
Regarding the global research and development trends of anti-aging ingredients, from a global perspective, anti-aging claims are widely used in facial skincare products, with anti-aging claims in facial skincare products in countries like the United States, the United Kingdom, Japan, China, and South Korea accounting for roughly 50%, and this percentage is consistently growing each year.
From a global viewpoint, anti-aging products encompass medical aesthetics, body care products, beauty and health products, facial skincare products, among others, with facial skincare products holding the largest share, approximately around 57%. Within facial skincare products, facial essences and creams make up nearly 70% of the proportion, with facial creams showing a continuous growth trend.
In the anti-aging ingredient market, retinol and boswellic acid are quite popular, yet their sales have seen a decline compared to the previous year. However, according to COSMAX, the two future trends in anti-aging ingredients are green sustainability and microecology anti-aging components.
Regarding green sustainability, COSMAX believes there are two main aspects. One is green science, which involves using microalgae or microbial fermentation, plant extract materials, and biodegradable packaging. The other aspect is the strategic development of sustainable synthetic biology. Currently, ingredients extracted through synthetic biology mainly include active components like collagen and extracellular polysaccharides. The microecology anti-aging ingredient market also shows significant potential, with rapid growth seen in the market for fermentation products of lactobacillus and yeast.
Returning to COSMAX’s anti-aging strategy in China, it is first and foremost aligned with green science. For instance, they have developed a natural anti-aging ingredient called Lan Yan Min from the black swan orchid, which exhibits anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. Additionally, COSMAX has made investments in sensitive skin anti-aging and synthetic biology. They have already established an exclusive microbial strain library with the aim of screening and optimizing microbial species from nature to produce active anti-aging ingredients.
YOSEIDO Cosmetics General Manager Wu Yifan:
“Online and offline consumers have the same anti-aging demands, just with different perceptions of efficacy pathways.”
Research by YOSEIDO has revealed that the anti-aging demands of online and offline consumers are the same, but the pathways for perceiving anti-aging efficacy differ between online and offline channels. Online channels particularly emphasize visual representation, relying on users’ imagination to ultimately decide on product selection.
I believe the next trend in anti-aging will be technological breakthroughs. As regulations in this area continue to improve, more and more cosmetics companies will engage in ongoing technological innovation. Additionally, the integration of products and devices will be one of the future trends in anti-aging.
CHANDO Marketing Department General Manager Tan Yan:
“Be a proficient scientific communicator and translator, explain ingredients more comprehensively.”
Increased investment in scientific research in the Chinese beauty industry is a prevailing trend. Over nearly 10 years, with a 150-person research team, CHANDO has discovered and developed HiMurchaSin in the remote Himalayan region at the brand’s source. This breakthrough not only solved the bottleneck issue of domestic yeast raw materials in China but also incorporated it into CHANDO’s Rejuvenation Repairing Essence.
Recent joint research has revealed a trend of skin aging becoming younger among Chinese women, with the onset of aging occurring approximately two years earlier. This phenomenon is closely related to the current lifestyle pressures and dietary habits of young people, with fatigue-induced aging emerging as a significant factor contributing to the gradual rejuvenation of Chinese women’s skin aging.
In this era of efficacy, consumers prefer to purchase the “right products” rather than just the “expensive products.” Therefore, our commitment to effective scientific communication is crucial. It serves as a key bridge in establishing trust between consumers and the brand. Many consumers do not fully understand how ingredients work on the skin. Thus, CHANDO has established the XiMoYin® communication pathway from 0 to 1, aiming to act as proficient translators, thoroughly conveying essential information to consumers, explaining ingredients more comprehensively, and presenting the principles of efficacy in a more accessible manner to consumers.
AMIRO Founder & CEO Wang Nian’ou:
“Home beauty devices can be combined with professional beauty devices.”
In the past 5 years, there have been significant iterations in both ingredients and technology in the cosmetics industry. For instance, many technologies previously exclusive to professional beauty clinics have gradually entered the realm of home beauty devices.
Research by AMIRO indicates that while professional beauty devices are more specialized, home beauty devices precisely meet consumer needs due to their convenience, cost-effectiveness, and sustainability. Therefore, by combining and collaborating home beauty devices with professional beauty devices, it is possible to significantly enhance anti-aging effects and maintain anti-aging cycles. For example, in clinical trials conducted by AMIRO and Chengdu Second Hospital, the combination of home radiofrequency beauty devices with Thermage treatments has shown excellent validation in terms of anti-aging and stability effects.
L’Oréal China Research and Innovation Center Skincare Development Laboratory Director, Xu Gongqi:
“Creating beauty that moves the world.”
The L’Oréal China Research and Innovation Center is one of the six major research hubs of the group worldwide. L’Oréal has over 4,000 scientists globally, with an R&D investment of up to 1.2 billion euros last year. The company operates a total of 20 R&D centers around the world, introducing approximately 3,400 or more new formulas to the market each year.
Why the need for numerous research centers worldwide? This is primarily because L’Oréal believes that research and innovation must be close to consumers. This is the essential mission of L’Oréal China Research and Innovation today – to center on Chinese consumers and develop beauty innovation solutions that best suit their needs.
Regarding L’Oréal’s anti-aging technology, I believe it can be summarized from four main dimensions:
- L’Oréal’s innovation DNA and pioneering spirit. For instance, with Boswelox, in the 1990s, L’Oréal began researching the Boswelox pathway and pioneered sugar biology research in the cosmetics industry, discovering the significant role of polysaccharides in skin aging. Currently, research on Boswelox by L’Oréal is ongoing, with the latest findings indicating its ability to strengthen the skin’s self-repair mechanism.
- Active ingredient technology. When it comes to active ingredients, our ultimate pursuit is safety, efficacy, and stability. For example, with Yuxi, which integrates hardcore ingredients from both Eastern and Western technologies, such as combining Boswelox with traditional Chinese herbs in the Cordyceps series, there is robust technological support behind it, applying L’Oréal’s skin aging map developed based on research on over 400 Asian women.
- Application of formulation technology. Yuxi Lijin Cream has a unique texture that is rich, moisturizing, and easily absorbed, achieving the ultimate balance between moisturization and lightness. It integrates descriptions of texture from over 1,000 Chinese women and undergoes over 400 formula refinements. In essence, L’Oréal aims for the best active ingredients to work ideally while enhancing absorption and bioavailability.
- Consumer-centric professional efficacy assessment. L’Oréal Paris Purple Iron has been on the market for six years, with sales exceeding 5.2 million units and eight major patented technologies. During the development of this product, L’Oréal astutely recognized that wrinkles in women in their twenties are dynamic lines, leading to innovative clinical trials and evaluation methods for dynamic lines.
Finally, I would like to share with you the mission of the L’Oréal group – “Creating beauty that moves the world.”
CHAILEEDO Luo Meijing:
“Science, Precision, Safety, and Classification are Important Trends for Chinese Skin Anti-Aging.”
In 2023, the market size of anti-aging functional cosmetics in China exceeded 300 billion yuan; from January to August 2024, the market size was 268.69 billion yuan, with a year-on-year growth rate of 30.1%, accounting for 38.2%. With consumers’ increasing awareness of anti-aging, the market size of anti-aging functional cosmetics is expected to further grow.
In terms of distribution channels, according to data from January to August 2024, CS, Taobao, and Douyin channels each accounted for over 20% of the anti-aging market, with Douyin slightly higher than Taobao.
Facial care sets have a high acceptance rate across all channels, contributing to over 30% of GMV; Taobao consumers, apart from sets, tend to purchase facial essences, lotions/creams based on their specific needs; Douyin consumers are more inclined to buy pre-packaged anti-aging sets from merchants, accounting for about half of the GMV; JD.com’s eye care GMV exceeds 20%, significantly higher than Taobao and Douyin.
The average price of anti-aging cosmetics on Taobao exceeds 400 yuan, 2.42 times that of non-anti-aging cosmetics; the average price of anti-aging cosmetics on Douyin is 277 yuan but significantly lower than Taobao and JD.com; on Taobao, the average price of anti-aging lotions/creams and facial essences is over 500 yuan. The highest-priced anti-aging set on Douyin is 475 yuan. JD.com’s anti-aging sets and facial essences are priced at over 600 yuan, with sets priced at 750 yuan.
In terms of aging attribution, over 70% of consumers believe that negative emotions like anxiety accelerate skin aging, indicating that emotional skincare and anti-aging have development potential, emphasizing the emotional value of anti-aging skincare products. On the other hand, consumers aged 36 and above believe that aging has a significant impact on skin aging, with about 80% of consumers over 50 considering aging as the main cause of skin aging.
Overall, about 60% of consumers are currently troubled by rough skin, enlarged pores, followed by poor facial radiance, dry skin, and imbalanced oil-water levels. Additionally, consumers of different ages face different skin problems; for example, consumers over 40, besides wrinkles, experience more prominent issues like sagging contours and eye bags.
Among anti-aging consumers, about 3/4 believe that serums are the most relevant category for anti-aging, followed by lotions/creams. It is worth noting that users aged 30 and below have a higher awareness of photoaging and emphasize the importance of sun protection for anti-aging.
Since the implementation of the new cosmetics regulations, the cosmetics industry has entered the era of efficacy, technology, scientific communication, and scientific popularization. The industry landscape is evolving rapidly, with each new trend being dizzying.
Amidst this significant change, action is the only way to cross over. Just as Cai Chaoyang said at the beginning of the conference, this year marks the 10th year of CHAILEEDO’s entrepreneurship. In these 10 years, CHAILEEDO has focused solely on reporting industry content. The more bewildering the landscape, the more important it is to stick to simplicity. Throughout the industry, there are many enterprises like CHAILEEDO, dedicating their lives to one purpose.
Today, we gather to explore the new trends in anti-aging under the wave of technology. In the next decade, CHAILEEDO looks forward to standing with the entire industry, facing the changing tides of the times without being confused, worried, or afraid.
